What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
. Since the last issue, three stores have been replaced and restarted. The 19th edition also has a new addition, Taihei Hoshino of "Arms Clothing Store (ARMSCLOTHINGSTORE).
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Taihei Hoshino / Director, ARMSCLOTHINGSTORE
Vol.19_Polo Ralph Lauren Chino Pants
-I hear that you are always reading this Series.
Yes, I know! I have always looked forward to reading this article. I have always looked forward to reading your articles. I believe that the concept of "vintage" itself is always being updated, and the range of what is categorized as "vintage" will continue to expand in the future. It is natural that each store and each person has their own color, and that is the color of each store. It is very interesting, isn't it?
. - It is precisely because of this discrepancy in values and perceptions that I am able to enjoy it freely. So, what is the New Vintage for you, Mr. Hoshino?
. The basic premise is that it can be adopted as a fashion item even in this day and age. The quality of the clothes in terms of design, function, material, sewing, etc. . . the culture and historical background that surrounds the clothes. In addition, the number of garments produced must be large enough to be recognized in later periods. If a garment is excellent in these elements, it will remain as an interesting or good vintage garment as time goes by. The elements that attract attention change with the times, but the items that are "interesting and good" will remain, and they will be re-evaluated and given the value of "new vintage" like the items introduced in this Series. I believe that the value of "new vintage" will be given to such items as those introduced in this series.
-I see. And here is a new vintage item I picked up this time.
Polo Ralph Lauren chino pants ¥8,690-¥11,990- (all)Arms Clothing Store)
These chinos are from the "Polo Ralph Lauren" chino pants series, commonly known as "Polo Chinos. No matter how you look at them, they are an unassuming item that doesn't photograph well (laugh), but Ralph Lauren has continued to make these ordinary, unassuming chinos from the 1980s to the present day, making small and large updates.
. - It is recognized as something that is commonplace in the world, and there are quite a few of them on the secondhand clothing market. What do you find interesting about it?
It is rare to find a brand that has continued to produce such a commonplace product for 40 years. Ralph Lauren is the only company that has been able to do so. They continue to offer a wide variety of colors, patterns, fabrics, and sizes for each season, and I think the number of items produced is far from sustainable (laughs). (Laughs) But thanks in part to this, polo chinos from secondhand clothing are "easy to choose and easy to wear, yet stylish at the same time. They have a value as chinos that cannot be found anywhere else.
-I understand that there have been quite a few different types developed, but what exactly are the differences?
Since a certain age, each model of polo chinos has been given a name like a person's name. This is the same with Ralph Lauren's shirts. There are two main types of polo chinos: untucked and two-tucked, and the models are divided by details such as the degree of taper, the depth of the crotch, and the finish of the hems. Even the standard colors are exquisitely different in tone, and there are even primary colors and light-colored ones. However, the color I wear the most is the standard khaki color (laugh).
-What are some of the most noteworthy models?
Polo chinos have also undergone specification changes over time, but in terms of models, models with roomy silhouettes such as "Andrew," "Hammond," and "Prospect" have been on the decline in recent years. Instead, models with a sleek and slim silhouette produced after the 2000s have been increasing even in secondhand clothing. So, if you are looking for a loose-fitting silhouette, you may want to buy stock as well.
. - It's also very versatile, and it's handy to have one.
I think this is also the depth of the "Ralph Lauren" brand, as it blends in with any style. In a sense, they are colorless and transparent, and have always been loved by people from various cultures and backgrounds. Polo chinos, in particular, are an item with a strong coloring. Of course, they are perfect for both authentic and 90's style outfits, but I think that even those who like current domestic brands and foreign high brands can use them without any sense of discomfort, without being confined to the framework of American traditional style.
Polo Ralph Lauren chino pants, ¥8,690 each (bothArms Clothing Store)
. - so maybe now is a good time to get one.
There used to be a lot more vintage clothing than there is today. Vintage clothes are a finite resource, like oil, and as the number of vintage clothes decreases, they become less and less readily available. However, polo chinos are still available and can be found. If you wear them out and they get holes, you can buy them again. They can be used as daily wear in the same way as American-made Levi's 501s, Dickies work pants, or U.S. Army baker pants. This is the greatest appeal of these pants.
Taihei Hoshino / Director, ARMSCLOTHINGSTORE
She directs all store operations, with a focus on sales and buying, at the popular Yutenji store "Arms Clothing Store (ARMSCLOTHINGSTORE)," where authentic yet thoughtful items can be found, captivating everyone from vintage clothing beginners to experts. In addition to his work at Arms, he is also involved in event planning and management on a freelance basis. Her favorite genre of clothing is "L.L.bean" from the 1980s onward.
Instagram: @armsclothingstore
Official site:armsclothingstore.com