So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.22 "Thought to be a classic, but actually rare! Stussy's World Tour T.

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

The 22nd issue of "PENGUIN TRIPPER" is by Mr. Hiroyuki Abe.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Hiroyuki Abe / Manager, PENGUIN TRIPPER
Vol.22_Stussy's T-shirts

-Now, what are the new vintage items you would like to introduce to us?

Once again, it's "Stussy" (lol). There are many items that are called "masterpieces," but if you have any experience in street culture, even if you are not a fan, you have probably seen this "World Tour T" at least once.

It is true that this is Stussy's most famous T-shirt!　It's true that Stussy's most famous T-shirt is this one.

As for the year of its first appearance, it has not actually been clarified, and it has existed since the early days of the brand, as it is said to have been in 1988 or 1989. Since then, it has been continuously released up to the present, but in fact, this model is an item with a fixed sales period in recent years. ......

What is the sales period?

In the past, the brand used to arrive at the beginning of a season and sell out, and then the season would be over, but now it seems that the sales method is to release the products every few months for a limited period of a few weeks. But now, it seems that the brand is releasing the products every few months for a limited period of a few weeks, which is how much they are positioned as special designs.

. - Some people may not even know what a "World Tour T" item is in the first place.

In terms of design features, the logo features the standard stock logo, SS link logo, and the names of cities such as New York, Los Angeles, Tokyo, London, and Paris printed on it. There are various theories as to why the city names are included, with the most popular theory being that they are the names of cities that Sean Stussy, the founder of the brand, was influenced by in terms of fashion. . Let's take a look at them in chronological order, starting with the oldest ones. Let's start with the earliest type, which is called the original.

Stussy's T-shirt ¥24,990(Penguin Tripper)

. The prints are unevenly colored and look handmade.

Did you know that there is actually a difference in the logo on early products?　The three dots at the top become two after the mid-1990s. According to a person who directly asked Sean about the reason for this, he does not really remember why he added the three dots. . This episode gives a sense of the atmosphere of appropriateness at that time, in a good sense of the word (laughs). Incidentally, it is said among fans that the two dots may have been added when the silkscreen printing plate was made anew after it was crushed or something.

. But this sense of graphics has not faded away, even when we look at it now.

The fact that they have sublimated a design that is merely a drawing of letters into a fashion statement is truly commendable, isn't it? Now, let's continue in this vein and take a look at some of the standard items of recent years. You can find a variety of colors in the vintage clothing market, but in fact, there are only two colors that can be called standard: white print on a black body, and black print on a white body. The rest of the colors are what we call seasonal colors, which are produced only for that season.

Stussy's T-shirts ￥4,990-5,990(All penguin trippers)

Wow, I didn't know that. I remember that there were a lot of collaboration models with artists released back then.

The first of these was the "Castamaid" series, which was introduced in 2003. The pioneer of this series was the "Castamaid" series, which was introduced in 2003. On the left is Crash, one of the legends of the New York graffiti scene, and on the right is Chaz Bohorquez, a master of Chicano graffiti art who has also done graphics for "Neighborhood". It is surprising how different the impression can be just by changing the font.

(from left to right) Stussy's T-shirts ¥9,990 , ¥9,990(both penguin trippers)

And then, in 2006, the "World Tour Pack" was developed with a larger number of artists. On the left is Jim Phillips, known as the graphic artist for SANTA CRUZ. On the right is BULLDOG SKATES, also well-known to skaters of the old-school generation.

(from left to right) Stussy's T-shirts ¥8,990 , ¥8,990(both penguin trippers)

ーこちらもそうですね。

The white body is designed by Skeesin (Skatesing). The white body is designed by Skeesin (Skatesing). Since the design is quite broken up, you may not recognize it at a glance, but if you look closely, you will see that the elements are the same. On the other hand, the black body is designed by Hit, a Japanese artist who has worked for "GOODENOUGH UK. They also look completely different, but if you look closely, you can see the name of the city around the emblem. As you can see, only the format "World Tour T" was specified, and the rest seems to have been left completely up to the artists themselves, and we can find unique designs that show each artist's individuality.

(from left to right) Stussy's T-shirts ¥12,990 , ¥9,990(both penguin trippers)

Lastly, what is the appeal of "Stussy" as a new vintage brand?

The "World Tour T-shirts" are exactly what they sound like, but to be honest, there are quite a few of them on the market, so people tend to think that they can be bought anytime. However, the more you know about T-shirts, the more interesting it is to find out that the regular T-shirts sold at used clothing stores are actually seasonally limited colors, or are designed by artists who are well known to those in the know. Moreover, it is very difficult to buy the same T-shirt again, as the same one is not so easy to find. There are also a lot of cases like the "Chaput Limited" item I introduced in the last issue, where you can't find any information even on the Internet. . So, if you are interested in any of the items in this article, please visit a thrift store as soon as possible. If you find something there that interests you even a little, we recommend that you buy it anyway.

Hiroyuki Abe / Manager, PENGUIN TRIPPER
He owns more than 1,000 items from the STUSSY archives and is renowned overseas as one of the world's leading collectors due to the volume of his collection and knowledge. Harajuku, TokyoPENGUIN TRIPPERis a street-focused vintage clothing store that he manages. He is currently operating a second store, PENGUIN TRIPPER B1, also on Tonchan-dori in Harajuku.
Instagram:@penguin_tripper, ,@xxabehiroyukixx