So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.24 It's time for the "not-so-good" ones. American-made hidden gem sweatshirts.

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

The 24th issue features Jun Fujii and Ken Doi of PROPS STORE ANNEX.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Jun Fujii & Ken Doi / Director, PROPS STORE ANNEX
Vol.24_Non-champion crew neck sweatshirt

-Now, what are the new vintage items that you would like to introduce to us?

Doi: This time, I would like to focus on American-made sweatshirts that are "not CHAMPION" in the sense of "AMETOOK! I would like to focus on sweatshirts made in the U.S. by "CHAMPION" (laughs). America is a cotton-producing country, so there are a lot of different kinds of sweatshirts. Of course, we love "Champion," but the prices of secondhand "reverse weave" sweatshirts are pretty outrageous, aren't they?

-. It is true that the price is not something you can easily afford as a regular customer.

Doi: That's right. They have become completely branded, and we can no longer enjoy them purely as fashion items, regardless of how they fit. Therefore, I thought it would be a good idea to propose the "other" type of sweatshirts, which can be bought normally but have not attracted so much attention yet. It may not be a new vintage, but you can find a lot of interesting ones.

Fujii：For example, ribbed panels on the sides, a characteristic of "reverse weave," can be found on models by LEE and the Cotton Exchange in addition to Champion. It's interesting to dig out the details.

. - Blank (plain) seems to be easy to use, too.

Fujii: The opposite is true for local people. People like logos, so embroidered or printed items with the logos of their home universities, local companies, or sports teams they support are popular. That's why plain colored embroideries are not so popular, but that's also the reason why there are still so many to choose from!

-Please give us some specific examples.

Fujii: I think people who know about the Uraharajuku boom of the 1990s must have fond memories of Lee, which has just been mentioned.

Lee's crew neck sweatshirt ¥5,500 each(All at Props Store Annex)

Lee's crew neck sweatshirt ¥5,500(Props Store Annex)

Doi: At the time, this was the next best thing to "Champion" in terms of body material, wasn't it? We had used it for the body of an original item we were making, and it was really good!　It is more affordable than "Champion," and the silhouette is not peculiar. The fabric has a bouncy feel, and it's no wonder why so many domestic brands in the so-called "Uraharajuku" area are using it. While "Reverse Weave" is 12 ounces, this one is actually 10 to 11 ounces, even though it claims to be heavyweight. So, despite its thickness, it dries properly when washed (laughs).

And this is Russell Athletic.

Russell Athletic crew neck sweatshirts, each ¥5,500-¥6,600(All at Props Store Annex)

Russell Athletic crew neck sweatshirt ¥5,500(Props Store Annex)

Fujii: If this is also a thing from the 70s or so, called a gold tag, it is usually vintage.

Doi: Recently, the prices of items from later periods have begun to soar. L.L.Bean" used to do OEM production here for a while, so the quality itself is well-known. There are also many lines, so it should be worth digging. This one is a series that is labeled "High Cotton" on the tag, with a cotton/poly blend of 90%/10%, making it slightly firm in fit. This is a brand called "KELL SPORT. The stand collar sweatshirt, a standard item of this brand, is famous in some circles, as ELECTRIC COTTAGE uses it for the body.

Kell Sport crew neck sweatshirt ¥6,600(Props Store Annex)

Fujii: There is a sewing factory in a vacation resort called Fall River in Massachusetts. Also, if you look for "B.V.D. (BVD)," which is famous for its underwear, you may find some that are in good shape. The silhouette is common to all of these brands. Basically, we like set-in sleeves with boxy silhouettes from the 1980s to the 2000s. Before that, raglan sleeves can be found in many cases, but while they are useful as innerwear for layering since the armholes are narrower, set-in sleeves and boxy silhouettes are more suitable for wearing alone.

Munsingwear crew neck sweatshirt ¥5,500 each , B.V.D. crew neck sweatshirt ¥5,500 , Wilson crew neck sweatshirt ¥5,500 , Haynes crew neck sweatshirt ¥5,500 , Santee crew neck sweatshirt ¥5,500(All at Props Store Annex)

-Is this "MUNSINGWEAR" the tennis wear brand with the embroidered penguin as its mascot?

Doi: The name is the same, but it is probably a different one (laughs). This one was also used in "GRAND ROYAL," which was organized by the Beastie Boys.

Munsingwear crew neck sweatshirt ¥5,500(both at Props Store Annex)

. When I hear such a thing, my appetite is suddenly stimulated. By the way, are there many brands like this in the U.S.?

Doi: Yes, there is. Or, more precisely, "there were. . Nowadays, most of the products are made in Central America. However, I don't think it is necessary to stick to American-made products. I think other stores may have more specific brands in addition to the above, but I don't think it is necessary to go that far yet. . In fact, you can still find them. If you are looking at it as a fashion item, I think you should be more conscious of the silhouette of the garment when worn. In the U.S., we have a dryer culture, so the lining is often dead or slightly deformed due to dryer burn. . But that's why it has the merit of being very comfortable to wear.

So, is that an important factor in your choice?

Doi: We originally buy larger sizes, so you can be sure which one you choose, but we also have narrower and wider necklines, so it is best for you to try them on and make your own choice. I prefer the wider ones with a longer neck, and I often buy them.

FUJII: And the same goes for the ribs. It is important that the ribs are nice and dead (stretched). The ribbed hems of these brands fall straight down after repeated washing, so you can enjoy a relaxed fit without losing the silhouette. Even if you spend a whole day at a thrift store, you won't be able to find that many of these items, and it's hard to find something that you yourself would want to wear.

Doi: We have a large number of these in stock. If they don't sell, we are prepared to die in a heart attack, so please come visit us (laughs).

-How did you like our introduction of good regular vintage clothes from the viewpoint of new vintage over two issues?

Fujii：I think that's good. Even if we categorize them as "new vintage," each store has a different perspective, and the most important thing is to broaden the range of how we look at and select vintage clothes.

Doi: If one were to ask, "Will these items actually become vintage in the future?" Doi: If you ask me, "Will these items actually become vintage in the future? I hope that people will simply understand that there is such a way of looking at it. I hope that people will take it as one of the suggestions for how to enjoy both the previous and this exhibition.

Jun Fujii & Ken Doi / Director, PROPS STORE ANNEX
The popular import store "PROPS STORE" from Harajuku captivates everyone from the generation that hits the streets directly to city boys, and its sister store "PROPS STORE ANNEX" is a used select store where you can find good regular used clothing. Both are directed by a Hiroshima native. Both are directed by two Hiroshima natives.
Instagram:@propsstore_annex
Official site:propsstoreannex.shop-pro.com