So, What is NEW VINTAGE?" in Series 【 Vol.27 "If you're going to wear it, it's going to look like you took it. Umbro wears it from a soccer point of view.

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This Series has been relaunched with a new store. The 27th issue features Tatsuo Yamagami of TOXGO, a new addition to the series.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Tatsuo Yamagami / Owner, TOXGO
Vol.27_Umbro nylon jackets & track jackets & track pants

-What does the new vintage mean to you, Mr. Yamagami?

Unlike the vintage boom of the 90's, I feel that the idea of "vintage" as something that everyone values and wants is no longer valid these days. This is especially true for the younger generation, who choose things based on their own sensibilities, and who place more importance on personal feelings and other personal aspects. My definition of "new vintage" is "something that is imbued with the atmosphere of the times, and that can be used as a common language among people who like the item. What people find value in it is up to them, and that is why it is so diverse and interesting. That's the beauty of New Vintage.

-. I see. So, what are the new vintage items you are going to introduce to us, Mr. Yamagami?

I would like to talk about "UMBRO," a brand that has been a part of "Togo" since its opening and is a personal nostalgia or hobby of mine. Originally, I played soccer when I was a student, and it was in the 1990s when I was following international soccer with great enthusiasm. As I was an avid fan of soccer equipment, I have a strong attachment to UMBRO, as it was a soccer brand that was gaining popularity at that time.

[clockwise from top right]Umbro nylon jacket ¥11,000 / Track jacket ¥ASK / Track pants ¥ASK / Track jacket ¥9,900(All in Togo)

-In a previous issue of this Series, Mr. Sakamoto of the "instant bootleg store" also introduced "Umbro" (see "Umbro" in the "Instant Bootleg Store" section of this Series).* So, what is NEW VINTAGE? See Vol. 05(See Section 2.1.2.).

I think it's a good idea, isn't it? Hajime's approach of introducing Umbro from the perspective of culture and fashion is certainly possible, but I personally can't talk about "Umbro" without mentioning soccer. Some people may get hooked on soccer through this article, so I wanted to let the readers know about it as well.

-What kind of brand did you recognize at the time?

Founded in 1924, Umbro is a brand with a long history in its home country of England, but at the time, Adidas and PUMA were the two giants in the soccer industry, and Nike was still unknown in the world of soccer. Nike was still unknown in the world of soccer, and Umbro was a little cheaper than other brands. Around 1992, more and more teams overseas began to use Umbro as their uniforms, and players began to be seen wearing the brand in soccer magazines, spreading the brand's name. I personally liked the brand because of its many novel designs, but I remember that it was positioned as a minor brand by the public.

-I've heard that Umbro doesn't have many winners, what do you think about that?

In many cases, the things themselves aren't even left in the first place. . Since they are basically sportswear, they are worn to shreds and thrown away. However, items from the 90's are generally cool, with colorful designs from that era. Perhaps the "few hits" being mentioned here are referring to the Japanese project that was produced from 1999 onward. 90% of those are dowdy, or just like clubbing clothes (laughs). . So, I have the impression that there are many good-looking items if we limit our purchases to those from overseas.

-Among them, you have brought us a recommendation this time.

First of all, here it is. This is a design often seen in vintage clothing stores, and I am sure you can find it if you look for it. The brand's iconic "double diamond" is boldly placed on the body. As you can see from the "NEW YORK 96" on the left chest, this is probably old American clothing. What is on the right shoulder? Probably the logo of the event. It is interesting to find a team patch or a back number here and there. Also, the crisp fabric, slightly larger silhouette, dolman sleeve patterning, and the atmosphere of the time are all here. It is quite elaborate, isn't it?

Umbro track jacket ¥9,900(TOGO)

-I'd like to know if there is a name for Umbro's items among enthusiasts.

I didn't have any friends around me with whom I could talk about Umbro, so I didn't know what to expect...sorry (laugh). Even in the early 2000s, when I started dealing with Umbro, there were not many used clothing stores that carried the brand, and the value of the brand as a product was not recognized.

-I see. So, this one is also very elaborate. Is it a team thing?

If you ask me which one is my favorite, this is definitely the one!　The openwork pattern on the base and the "double diamond" design on the front of the front placket are all very European and interesting. The design, which would have been printed nowadays, is expressed by switching the fabrics, so it must have cost a lot of money. The emblems on the chest, sleeves, and back are all embroidered. Incidentally, there is also a version for the Scottish national team.

Umbro track jacket ¥ASK(TOGO)

The tag on the jacket is labeled "REPLI KIT". . It was probably a series of replicas of what the players actually wore. Pants of the same design are also available, and can be worn as a set-up.

Umbro track pants ¥ASK(TOGO)

-. Here is the last one. It's a different color again, and is it a bench coat-like item?

It's a Manchester United FC model , but it's padded, so I guess that's the flair. And I can find quite a few photos of Alex Ferguson, who was the manager at the time, wearing it over his suit. . and it looks cool again. The striped fabric, the shape of the pockets, the large logo on the inside, and other details make this a stylish piece of clothing that shows attention to detail.

Umbro nylon jacket ¥11,000(TOGO)

-How do you recommend these be worn?

It's really just a normal look, like a sweatshirt and slacks, with a track jacket thrown on top. I like the "put-together" look, like I'm going to a soccer game and just put it on because I'm going. For our generation, we tend to think that we have to add a twist, such as matching the color scheme with other items or shoes to create a certain atmosphere, but for the younger generation, I want them to wear whatever they want without being conscious of it.

Tatsuo Yamagami / Owner, TOXGO
In 2008, he and a friend opened the vintage clothing store "KINSELLA" in Harajuku, and in 2015 opened "TOXGO" on the basement floor of KINSELLA in collaboration with Goro Nakatsugawa of the select store "MIN-NANO" in Ikenoue. While utilizing each other's strengths, the lineup is quite eclectic, and once you get hooked, you will be hooked.
Official site:www.toxgo.jp
Instagram:@toxgo