So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.39 Levi's® 90s denim shirts are the epitome of "plain and good.

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

Now in its fifth season, this Series has been restarted with a new participating store. In this 39th issue, we present Yoshiyuki KINOYAMA of "NOOK" on his second tour.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Yoshiyuki KINOYAMA / Owner, NOOK
Vol.39_Black denim shirt by Levi's®.

-Now, what new vintage items will you introduce in the second round?

This time, we would like to introduce a denim shirt from the 90s made by Levi's®. When it comes to vintage Levi's® denim shirts, the "short horn" Western shirts are well-known, but the so-called "regular" denim shirts are never talked about. (I've never heard anything about "denim shirts from the 90's are interesting now! (laugh). (Laughs) That's why I think it's an item that needs attention now.

Levi's® black denim shirt, ¥4,290 (nook)

-At a quick glance, it looks "very ordinary", but what are the highlights?

If we talk about the design, the first thing to mention is the front buttons, which are the same type of tuck buttons used on G-jans and the like, giving the shirt a more rugged, work-style feel than ordinary shirts, don't you think?　It has a half-jacket, half-shirt feel to it, and I personally like the dorky coolness of it. Another key point is that it is black denim. Blue denim predominates in terms of number of balls, but considering the popularity of black shirts in the vintage clothing market, I feel that this item is still relatively easy to find.

-The details are also quite simple.

The only other thing left is a tag attached to the hem of the front placket. However, the silhouette is thicker in the armholes, shorter in length, and wider in width. The neck is normal in comparison, so I think it is easy to fit Japanese people who have narrower necks than foreigners. The shoulders fall nicely when worn, which is also very current. Above all, as I mentioned at the beginning, no one pays attention to them, so they are not worn by other people, and there is still a wide selection of sizes available. Incidentally, it seems that a line called "Levi's RED TAB" that existed from the 90's to the 00's also released denim shirts with almost the same design as this one. The relationship between the two is unclear, so please let me know if you know anything about it (laughs).

-I'm sure you've seen items in this area in real time as well.

This is an item from when I was in college and really into skateboarding. At the time, New York-style b-boy skaters were in their heyday, and I remember seeing shirts like this in hip-hop import select shops like NEVERLAND in Daikanyama, along with Polo Ralph Lauren and Eddie Bauer. I think these shirts were sold at import select stores like "NEVERLAND" in Daikanyama, Tokyo. I liked a rider named Anthony Corea who belonged to "ZOO YORK" at that time, and I used to copy the baggy denim and thick sweatpants he wore. I would wear Timberland or Nike ACG boots on my feet, an Abercrombie & Fitch safari backpack, and a hunting cap on my head. I would wear a hunting cap on my head. I miss it so much.

-These items that were "ordinary in a good sense" at the time are also in today's mood.

I guess. If you were of the younger generation, you would probably wear them with boot-cuts and slacks like Levi's® Staplest or Wrangler's Rancher. For our generation, it's a fresh approach to match them with oversized 90s denim shirts where 70s style would be matched with western shirts. Or, as I mentioned earlier ......, sweat pants or nylon pants can also be worn to give the look of "back in the day". The most important thing to do is to make sure that you have the right tools for the right job. It's convenient because it's lightweight and can be thrown on quickly, and I think it's great for skateboarding at night during this time of year. I haven't worn it in a while (laughs).

Yoshiyuki KINOYAMA / Owner, NOOK
After graduating from college, he worked at the skateboard store "Hawk" in Harajuku for about 2 years, then at the vintage clothing stores "LOOP" in Omiya and Nakameguro for a total of 7 to 8 years before going independent in 2011. He opened his own vintage clothing store "NOOK," which moved to a new location a 5-minute walk from Toritsu Daigaku Station in 2015, and is now in its 11th year. The store has many fans among people in the industry and offers good regular vintage clothing and select items that anyone can freely match with their own style, just like a jazz freestyle session.
Official site:ameblo.jp/nooker/
Instagram:@nook_toritsudai