What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
This Series has now entered its seventh season. The 49th installment, the first in the series, is by Mr. Genta Sakai of DAMAGEDONE 2nd in Harajuku.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Genta Sakai / DAMAGEDONE 2nd Buyer
Vol.49_Reebok Track Jackets of Euro Project (90's-00's)
-What is the new vintage for you?
To some extent, I have seen and experienced so-called "true vintage" vintage clothing, but in today's vintage clothing market, the prices have skyrocketed to the point where it is not affordable. On the other hand, vintage clothing from the 90's to the 00's can still be obtained as an everyday item at a reasonable price. I think this "wearable as everyday wear" is one of the criteria for new vintage vintage clothing.
-I see. So, who will you introduce to us this time?
In the United Kingdom, where I am visiting on a buying trip, there are only a few fashionable people in the center of London, and the majority are dressed in ordinary clothes. What catches my eye are the delinquents who hang out on street corners in East London, Manchester, and Glasgow. The brand that they are most frequently wearing is Reebok. The reason for this is both because sportswear is available cheaply at thrift stores and because of the culture of gangsters wearing sportswear for ease of movement.
-What are the most interesting items?
Originally, the brand itself was born in the U.K., but since the 1980s, it has expanded into the U.S., and nylon jackets with flashy colors and designs have become mainstream. Compared to these, European items are clearly different in terms of design philosophy. So, for this issue, we have limited the 90's to 00's period, and have brought out European-style track jackets. First of all, here is a track jacket. The texture of the microfiber material, the piping line that may or may not have a meaning, and the sporty logo design all bring out the atmosphere of those days. The combination of the pure white body and sky blue color looks fresh at first glance, but on the contrary, it looks like a delinquent.
Reebok track jacket ¥9,900(Damaged Dawn 2nd)
-The other pullover type has a slightly futuristic feel that I thought was very current.
The material is a shiny ripstop nylon with a mesh lining, and the fit is sporty as well. The lenticular material logo patch that catches the eye above all else has an unintelligible specification that does not change even when the angle is changed, and the front pocket is also a dummy for some reason (laugh). The front pocket is a dummy for some reason (laugh). We selected this item because we thought it could be considered interesting, including the fact that it is low-tech in contrast to its appearance.
Reebok track jacket ¥1,1000(Damaged Dawn 2nd)
-Locals are wondering how they will fit together.
Unlike in Japan, there is no sense that brands should be matched with each other, so I usually wear NIKE track pants and high-tech run shoes such as Air Max Plus on my feet. In the spring and fall, I wear a plain white T-shirt as an inner layer. Those who have enough money in their pocket can wear gold necklaces and grilles. Japanese people tend to be on the edge of their comfort zone, but the key point is to have a sense of "daring to choose something at random" and a "real clothes" feel, as if they are wearing it for ease of movement. The key is how casually you can express the sense of "this is how they would wear it over there. That is the key.
-I think this is an important point from the perspective of "being able to wear it as everyday wear" as mentioned earlier.
That's right. In the case of adidas, artists such as Noel Gallagher of Oasis and JQ of Jamiroquai have worn these shoes, and there is a musical and cultural background unique to the Euro zone, isn't there? With Reebok, I don't hear much of a connection in that area. Well, in recent years, they have collaborated with rappers, so I am talking about the pre-00's period. But that's what's good about it. It's not at all as if it's the focus of the fashionable crowd, and since it's not taken seriously by vintage clothing dealers, you can still find interesting things that have not been cleaned up.
-What do you suggest for how to wear it?
Hopefully, people will wear it without thinking. The bottoms can be denim or slacks, and it is not necessary to wear XX with them because they are "◯◯◯," but rather, we hope that they will fit their individual styles. It is not an item that you can find information on by looking it up, and the local people wear it as they see fit, so I think it is the right thing to do. I wanted to go against the current trend of choosing vintage clothing, where everyone "picks the same thing and wears it the same way," so please go ahead and take it as you please (laughs).
Genta Sakai / DAMAGEDONE 2nd Buyer
At the age of 20, he joined UTM Ltd. and became a store staff member of the select store "RAWDRIP" operated by the company. Since then, he has steadily built up his career at "RAWDRIP 2nd" and "DAMAGEDONE 2nd," and has 14 years of apparel experience. Currently, he is in charge of buying as well as press work.
Official site:damagedone2nd.stores.com
Instagram:@damagedone2nd