So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.55 Ordinary cut-and-sewns that "everyone goes through" from a standard brand that everyone knows.

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This Series has now entered its seventh season. . So, we are restarting with a new store. In this 55th issue, we introduce Taku Ishibashi of "MUD" in Shimokitazawa, Japan.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Taku Ishibashi / Owner, MUD
Vol.55_J.Crew and Gap's Cut and Sew

-Now, what are the new vintage items that you would like to introduce to us?

Since this is the second round, I thought I'd take a more professional look at the gaps. The title is "ordinary cut-and-sewns made by well-known brands. Items that fetch high prices in the secondhand clothing market are basically "popular, so every store wants to carry them, which makes them hard to get in stock and raises their rarity value," but this is the exact opposite. Usually, we stock catchy items that catch our attention, as do our competitors. What they don't buy are ordinary cut-and-sewns from the 1990s and 2000s, which are nothing special. . So, even if you want one and look for it at a thrift store, you can't get it. . That's right, because they don't stock them (laughs).

-What is it about an item that any ordinary thrift store would pass over that makes it so interesting?

It's not so much my mood, but simply because I like and love them myself. ...... Well, it might be easier to talk about it if you actually see them. Let's start with J.CREW's border cut-and-sewns. Many of the brands based on American traditional clothing around here have henley-neck type. Moreover, the striped pattern is a wooden beige and navy color with this pitch width, so it looks like pajamas, but the fabric is exquisitely thin and comfortable to wear. It is from the 90s with a white tag, and the country of production is Israel in the Middle East. . When I hear that, I wonder if this relaxed silhouette and the feeling of wearing it are also a result of the land (laughs).

J.Crew Henry Neck Cut & Sewn ¥8,690(MAD)

-Something about the atmosphere is nice, too.

The silettos and cat-eye buttons have a slightly classical feel, and the faded texture and the threading of the hems are also unique to old clothes. The cut-and-sewns made by major companies in this age group are very particular about each of them, and many of them can be worn not only as innerwear but also as stand-alone items. As for how to wear it, it can be layered with a cardigan or with a short-sleeved T-shirt. It's a good idea to use it as a base item, without being too conscious of the neckline, since it's a henley neck. For me, I can talk all day long with just this one item.

-The next plain type is also by "J.Crew.

It is newer than the previous one, 2000s. The country of production is Canada. Canada is also famous for its knit products, which are very soft and comfortable to the skin. As for the design, it is really simple. There are no ribbed sleeves, and only a small pocket on the chest. There is nothing special to mention, so ordinary buyers would probably pass it by. . but the buyer would probably just say, "Oh well, whatever. But I want that "oh well" to be the most important thing! In that sense, I can say that this is the best dress for me (laughs).

J.Crew cut and sewn with pockets ¥8,690(MAD)

-. Finally, the simplest one came.

Compared to the previous two, the Gap is more well-known in Japan, but it is not the so-called "old Gap" (laughs). It is a plain white, mock-necked shirt. The country of production is the Northern Mariana Islands, which is also unusual. It is great as an inner layer, but even in size M, the silhouette is wide and short, with a loose fit around the neck. It can be worn loose without feeling self-conscious. You can have as many of these as you want, but as mentioned above, they are hard to find at thrift stores (tears).

J.Crew cut and sewn with pockets ¥8,690(MAD)

-What parts of these are good or bad?

Whether you feel good about it or not. To the untrained eye, it is hard to tell which brand it is, but the person wearing it knows how good it is. It is a kind of sense of superiority, or what we call "Edokko" style, which is a kind of obsession with things that cannot be seen. I also think it is important that the product is made as a fashion item, not as a tool. If the item is mass-produced, but you can feel the will of the creator intervening, there is a possibility that it will remain as the next vintage item. Even if you are a beginner in vintage clothing, I believe that your aesthetic sense will become more discerning as you step up your search little by little, starting with these items. It's fun, just like a treasure hunt with a high level of difficulty.

Taku Ishibashi / Owner, MUD
After working at SPROUT 2nd and BUD in Harajuku for about 10 years, he became independent and opened his own vintage clothing store, MUD, in Shimokitazawa in 2019, marking its third year as an owner. The store features a wide range of lineups that can be enjoyed by many people with diverse styles. The store conveys the joy of "wearing clothes" through vintage clothing, and has more than 14,000 followers on Instagram.
Official site:mud1484.thebase.in
Instagram:@1____mud____1