So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.56 What's one step beyond "what" to "where" to choose a fleece jacket with a shell on the front and fleece on the back.

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

We find ourselves in the seventh season of this Series. So, we have restarted with a new store, and this 56th issue is the last in the second round of each store. Let's end this series with Mr. Hajime Sakamoto of the "instant bootleg store.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
Vol.56_Shell jacket with "that shape" of outer shell and fleece lining

-Now, what is the new vintage item you are going to introduce this time?

Naturally, we will focus on "things" this time as well, but we hope to not only introduce things, but also to touch a little more on this "vintage clothing" culture that the Japanese have popularized. I am planning to do so. I would like to introduce a "basic American jacket" from the 1980's. It is a jacket with an outer shell and inner lining. In terms of style, it is a blouson type jacket with a shell outer layer and a fleece lining. The most popular type is Patagonia's classic "Shelled Synchilla. It can withstand a little rain and wind, and also keeps you warm. I think this is an idea unique to America, the land of the great outdoors. The length is short like a swing top, and it is not intended for full-scale use in the mountains or rivers. In short, I think this is city wear born from the fact that "the outdoors is a part of our daily lives.

Patagonia jacket ¥27,500(Instant Bootleg Store)

. -It seems very standard in terms of design, or easy to wear.

It's a pretty cool silhouette, isn't it?　The body is wide, but the length is just right, and the colors and materials are nice, even though it's a bit wild and classic. The look is a bit middle-school, with a sense that technology is still in its evolutionary stages. . That's what I like about it, it's super current. What is interesting is the fact that this same style of jacket also exists in this brand and that brand, which are well known by everyone.

Eddie Bauer jackets (from top) ¥16,500 , ¥16,500 , ¥13,200(Instant Bootleg Store)

Eddie Bauer jacket ¥16,500(Instant Bootleg Store)

Eddie Bauer is one such brand. The "Windfoil Jacket" is the model name used here. The current version is also available here, and the details have changed with the times: from the 1980s to the early 1990s, the look was almost the same, but in recent years, the sleeves and hem have changed from ribbed to elastic. Similarly, other brands have made minor changes and changed the names of their models little by little.

Eddie Bauer jackets (from top) ¥16,500 , ¥13,200(Instant Bootleg Store)

Eddie Bauer jacket ¥13,200(Instant Bootleg Store)

-What other brands do you have?

L.L.Bean also makes this jacket, and its model name is the "Warm-Up Jacket. The patterned lining and color scheme give it a unique look. The same shape can have a very different feel with different colors and patterns, so it's very interesting to look for them.

Elle Bean jacket ¥19,800(Instant Bootleg Store)

Elle Bean jacket ¥19,800(Instant Bootleg Store)

The top one is from the early 1980s, with a front zip and a winged tailoring. The second one is from recent years, but has transitioned to a simple look with ribbed sleeves and hem similar to other brands. There are so many variations of these classic American outdoor brands alone, it's a real swamp (laughs). . And this time, we would like to dive even deeper.

-Oh, are there more coming up?

Woolrich, The North Face under the name "Windy Pass," and Timberland are among the rarer ones.

Woolrich jacket ¥13,200(Instant Bootleg Store)

The North Face jacket ¥18,700(Instant Bootleg Store)

Timberland jacket ¥13,200(Instant Bootleg Store)

Other brands include "LANDS'END" (Gap), "REI" (REI), and many others. Even brands that have disappeared or were established after the year 2000, brands with even a hint of outdoor taste are always making this style.

. - There is no end to the list, is there?

I hope you now understand what I mean by "American basics behind the scenes.　Unlike jeans and G-jans, this style is not so familiar to Japanese people, but I guess it naturally became "commonplace" in the U.S. due to the climate and national characteristics. It is what is called a "sellable style.

-It is also good to know that even though there are so many different brands making these items, you can only find them online or on flea market apps under the category of "nylon jackets. This makes it worthwhile digging around.

The vintage movement, which has been building its foundations over the past 20 years, is now firmly established as a Japanese culture of secondhand clothing, and is now at an all-time high. In such a situation, I think the phase has completely changed. This Series is not a wake-up call for new items that "have no value yet, but will definitely have value in the future. We are proposing something new. Nowadays, there is too much information on vintage clothing because it is too compatible with social networking sites. People are too eager to find the right thing, and I feel that this right-to-the-right attitude is very tacky. There are trends in vintage clothing, and they change with the times, but in the end, "just take what you like" is all that matters. That's all right. Of course you can wear the same trendy outerwear and bottoms as the next guy, but you can also wear your favorite old T-shirts as innerwear, even though they have no value. There is a value that only you can see. That is the true joy of vintage clothing, isn't it?

-. It's like a jewel. By finding a value that only you can understand, you can make a stone lying around look like a jewel.

Therefore, this time, instead of saying "I'll buy it because it was introduced here," we have selected items that are made by any brand, and that require the perspective of "not what to choose, but where to choose" in order to encourage people to research and take a step further. We have selected items that are not made by any brand. People living in rural areas should of course make full use of the Internet and social networking services, but there is no way they can put all the items in the store on their online store. So, what do you do?　Go to the actual store. On my days off, I go to Tokyo with my friends. I mean, go out of your way , you know. That's what I would like you to do. And that's coming from me, an online-only shopper (laughs).

Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
He worked in the vintage clothing industry for over 8 years at "BerBerJin" in Harajuku, Tokyo, where he also gained experience in buying. After that, he joined the select store "FAN". Since then, he has been involved in various projects. The secondhand clothing shop where Hajime Sakamoto sells what he thinks are good items with the theme of "a wonderful way to spend your money" isinstantbootlegstore."The first is.
Instagram:@hajime0722