So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.85 More extreme than Y2K. We call it "active cut and sewn.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

With all the new stores replaced, this Series is finally in its 11th season! The 85th issue is the second round of Mr. Dai Harada of "MOANINʼSTORE" in Sakurajosui. What new vintage items will he introduce?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Dai Harada / Director, MOANINʼSTORE
Vol.85_POINT ZERO & xg & Bluenotes ribbed cut & sewn

This time, it looks like a cut-and-sew, but the material of the body is different. What do you generally call this kind of item?

It's a cut and sewn garment made of so-called ribbed knit material, so it must be a ribbed cut and sewn garment. I've been paying attention to them personally and have accumulated a little stock of them whenever I find them, so I thought it was time to bring them out. Although it is getting warmer during the day, it is a little chilly when the sun goes down. Here is an item just right for this time of year.

-I think the key point is that the body is ribbed.

The short sleeve ribs and no ribbed hem allow for a more relaxed fit than a cotton T-shirt. The short ribbed sleeves and non-ribbed hem allow for a more relaxed fit than cotton T-shirts.

-We have several items for you to choose from, but what about the first one?

The brand is "POINT ZERO. According to the official website, this brand was founded in 1979. On the other hand, this one has "since 1983" written on the tag, so it is unclear if they are the same brand. However, since they are both fashion brands that focus on the outdoors, we think they may be the same.

POINT ZERO ribbed cut and sewn ¥7,700 (Monin Store)

-Somehow there is a sideways feeling to snowboarding and surfing.

As a surf brand, "Ocean Pacific" (OP) also produced similar items at the same time. As you can guess from the rubber tag on the left chest, the period was from the late 90s to the early 00s. In the terminology of the time, this was the "extreme" type of clothing. And the second item was "xg". I have no information on this one, so I don't know what it is (laughs). (Laughs) However, the tag says "extreme quality," so I think it must be from that area. The design is also full of the extreme atmosphere of the early 00's.

xg ribbed cut and sewn ¥7,700 (Monin Store)

-The third item is labeled "bluenotes" on the tag, but I'm not sure of the details here either.

The brand is still in existence here and there is an official website. It was founded in Canada and seems to have over 120 stores there, but is completely unknown in Japan. The current lineup is quite simple and no longer separate. Well, to be honest, I haven't done that much digging, and in fact, I don't think I need to. The important thing is the look and feel, so as long as the details and colors are good, I'm picking them.

Bluenotes ribbed cut and sewn ¥7,700 (Monin Store)

-I'd like to know what details would make a good buy.

I think it's the switching. The combination of the sleeve lines and piping. The color scheme is also exquisite. Point Zero" has some of the most well-crafted items. For example, there are T-shirts with mesh material sandwiched in between the piping. You wouldn't know what I'm talking about just by looking at the words, but the point is that they dare to do something unnecessary (laughs).

In the case of "Blue Notes," the use of fabric is even more unique. The ribs are used horizontally instead of vertically. If the garment is supposed to be worn tight, the horizontal ribs are used to make use of the elasticity to increase the range of motion when worn. However, most of the ribs we could find were too big! In this case, I don't know what the point is.

I think these items were born because of the low humidity climate in the U.S. and Canada, and as mentioned earlier, the designs are unique to the late 90s to early 00s when extreme clothing was the trend. In that sense, I would say that these items are worth looking for in second-hand clothing.

-What would you name such 90's~00's extreme ribbed cut & sewns as a category?

At the time of ......, I often saw this kind of cut-and-sew look with thick cargo pants and skate shoes in overseas magazines and catalogs, but what do I think about it? I think it's a bit too much to call it "extreme". ...... How about an action ......, or how about an active cut and sewn?

-It's good, isn't it? It's also a good thing that the brands are ones that no one in Japan seems to recognize the moment they see them.

In other words, there is no need to be conscious of the brand. Of course, this is not true for all items, as it depends on the item, but for this item, there is no problem. Recently, the elegant style of slacks and leather shoes has been popular, and it would be fun to match an active top with it. Overseas skate brands have also been making items sampling this style, so it should be a good fit. On the other hand, for the adult generation, a long T-shirt with prints is too childish, and they are not in the mood for knitwear. We recommend this item as a change of pace for such occasions! For now, if you find a piece that has all three of the three elements of "material, color, and transition," and it hits the spot the moment you see it, buy it! That's all I'm going to say.

Dai Harada / Director, MOANINʼSTORE
After working as the main buyer at an import store in Harajuku for many years and designing original items at a skate store affiliated with the same import store, he opened his own used & select store "MOANINʼSTORE" in Sakurajosui in April 2023. He also enjoys painting and photography.
Official site:moanin.theshop.com
Instagram:@moaninstore