Serials 【, What's the NEW VINTAGE? Vol.99 "The Goodness of Origins, which we notice by reprinting. It's about time for Overland's turn

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

All the new stores have been replaced, and the series has finally entered its 13th season! The 99th issue features Mr. YUTA of "Mr. Chubby," a shop that attracts a wide range of customers in Koenji, a fierce battleground for vintage clothing! What new vintage items will he introduce this time?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

YUTA / Mr. Chubby Owner
Vol.99_Overland Equipment Messenger Bags & Shoulder Bags & Pouches

First of all, please tell us about "Mr. Chubby.

My partner Kazuma and I work together. I like vintage leather shoes and outdoor clothing, and my partner likes the 90's. So, in addition to the genres we both like, we stock Japanese domestic brands, maison brands, and other brands that we feel are "fashionable" in our experience, as long as they fit the current era. We try to stock whatever we feel is "fashionable" in our experience and fits the current era.

I would say that there is a lot of variety, or rather, it has the vintage clothing store style that I saw "back then".

That's right. With a limited floor space of 15 tsubos, we had to narrow down the genres in order to express our unique style, so we try to have a lineup based on our own "what we want to wear and promote now," while also trying to convey the quality of regular items that have no name. We also try to have a lineup of things with the idea of conveying the quality of regular items that have no name.

I feel that you are very particular about your purchasing.

We discuss our purchases together, updating them in accordance with trends, the current scene, and the atmosphere of the moment. We also keep in mind the items that we call "this is vintage clothing" and collect them in a genre-less manner. We hope that customers will enjoy browsing the entire lineup in the store and find interesting vintage clothing for themselves according to their own aesthetic sense.

What does Mr. Chubby think of the new vintage?

I am not sure if this is an appropriate answer, but there are many items whose market price skyrockets via social networking sites, and we want to sell them at a reasonable price before that happens. We want to sell them at a reasonable price before that happens. Then, after they are in the hands of customers, their value will increase. This means that both the vintage clothing store that sold the item and the customer who selected it were not mistaken in their judgment. I think that is one of the best parts of vintage clothing, and I believe that items that can do that can be considered new vintage.

On top of that, I chose Overland Equipment, a brand that is nostalgic for those of us who experienced the outdoor boom of the 1990s.

I have always loved the outdoors, and with regard to bags, I started with THE NORTH FACE, KELTY, and GERRY in the 1970s, and in the 1990s, I was exposed to products from each era, such as GREGORY and OSPREY. In the 1990s, I came into contact with products from various periods, such as GREGORY and OSPREY. As I have grown older, I have experienced the durability of these products, and if I had to choose now, I would choose "Overland Equipment".

The company was founded in 1981 in California, U.S.A., and is known for its commitment to "Made in the USA" and for consistently producing all of its bags in its own factories without outsourcing.

Hence, it has become a hot topic in the fashion industry for its high quality and functionality. In fact, the zips are strong first. The models from the 1990s in particular are tough in various parts and can be used for a long time. Also, the variety of designs and coloring are the best. 2000's saw a change in tags and more coloring that blends in with the city. And of course, the bags themselves are easy to use and very good from a combined perspective. One of my favorites is the messenger bag.

Overland Equipment messenger bag for reference (Mr. Chubby)

For those of us of the generation who knew the Overland brand back then, we are all familiar with the image of the Overland = SpiderWeb.

The original material with a "spider web" reflector print on nylon appeared in the early 1990s. In recent years, a certain select store has also reissued a model using this material.

-I appreciate the reprinting.

Yes, I am happy and welcome in itself, but I am not satisfied with the quality compared to what I had at the time. ...... So, naturally, I decided that I would prefer the original one. I have only seen this messenger bag twice myself, including this one, but isn't the size good?

It is quite large. It also looks like a tough spec bag, with lots of pockets and other storage space, and the details show that it has excellent functionality that is as good as the latest gadget bags.

It is fully equipped with divider pockets and organizers, and can even hold a laptop computer, making it perfect for work. It is very functional with well thought-out details, and it is tough as well. I've been using it for more than five or six years, and it's still going strong. Another messenger bag that is easy to use on a daily basis is this one.

Overland Equipment messenger bag for reference (Mr. Chubby)

The one with the old tag is from the 1990s, and the one with the black tag is from around 2000. The newer ones have improved functionality and are easier to use, so they are superior in terms of functionality, but the older ones also have "unique qualities," which is fine. I don't dislike the smell of the inner coating as it deteriorates over time (laughs).

-Same tag, but this one is more colorful.

Overland Equipment messenger bag, ¥14,080 (Mr. Chubby)

The multi-colors are very 90's, aren't they? However, it is also interesting to see ......, which is hard to fit in today's era. It's a very Overland style. We also prepared two types of pouches.

Overland Equipment pouch for reference (Mr. Chubby)

Here is another old tag. Spiderweb is the best, but in terms of rarity, it is the Alpine with the grid pattern design. I used to own a messenger bag with the same pattern as this one, but this pouch has fewer balls now, and I rarely see it anymore.

Overland Equipment pouch for reference (Mr. Chubby)

-Almost the same design, but the shape of the flap and the tag are different.

It seems that the tag was switched probably at the end of the 90's. There was also a leather version of this. I had a few of them, and I gave one to a friend of mine at a vintage clothing store, but now I wish I had kept it. I really wish I had kept them.

-In the 1990s, many people used these pouches as if they were accessories.

It has a card slot, a zipped pocket for coins, and you can even put your passport in it. It's not for serious climbing, but for walking in national parks, festivals, etc., when you don't want to cover your hands and don't want to carry too much luggage.

Overland Equipment" is certainly interesting again now!

There are many more, but they are a bit too maniacal, so I picked the ones that are current and easy to recommend. The fact that they are not popular is also good and interesting because they are from ....... There are some models that are still new to me. For example, there are bags made of hemp as well as nylon from around 2000. It is precisely because it is vintage clothing that you can find such interesting things. That's why I recommend "Overland Equipment!

YUTA / Mr. Chubby Owner
In 2021, Mr. Chubby and his partner Kazuma opened "Mr. Chubby" in Koenji, known as a fierce battleground for vintage clothing. The items purchased mainly from the U.S. and Europe include vintage and regular "secondhand" clothing, as well as domestic and maison brands, both old and new, that their antennae have caught. They also offer an original clothing line, and their fifth item, a bag, has just been released.
Instagram:@mr.chubby.clothing