What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.100 If you choose Arc'teryx now, choose items with a sense of "ism.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

With all the new stores, the series has finally entered its 13th season! The 100th issue is by Mr. Hajime Sakamoto of "instant bootleg store"! What new vintage items will he introduce this time?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
Vol.100_Arcteryx

-It has been almost two years since Season 7. This series, which we launched together with Mr. Sakamoto to begin with, has now reached its memorable 100th installment.

I have been involved in this article many times, but this time I wanted to go back to the basics and do something that is the easiest to understand so far. So, from among the many outdoor brands, I would like to focus on "ARC'TERYX," a brand that is well-known among the general public, but "in fact, there are many things about it that are not well understood.

-In recent years, I have the impression that the popularity of tech-related products has spread quickly to the general public.

When people in the apparel industry think of Arcteryx, hard shells are the first thing that come to mind, but generally speaking, bags are the first thing you see when walking down the street. However, bags are usually the first thing you see when you walk down the street. In comparison, jackets are more expensive than other brands, and I have the impression that more and more people have been wearing jackets recently. In other words, Arc'teryx is finally making inroads in Japan.

-So, what are the new vintage items you will be introducing this time?

If this is the case, I think it would be fun to have more items that are enjoyable at a reasonable price range and that give a strong sense of Arc'teryx's raison d'être and philosophy. First, let's take a look at the "COVERT" series, which is also currently available.

This is a standard item in the company's mid-layer lineup that has been updated many times while continuing to be used as a shell jacket, which is known as a masterpiece. It belongs to the so-called fleece tops, but the long-fur side is on the reverse side, and the front side features an outshell with a knit-like texture.

-The fleece has a "techie gear" look to it, without the typical warmth of fleece.

Yes, it is a chic image that is different from the warm look of "patagonia" and the like. It has an atmosphere similar to the knitwear used by POLO RALPH LAUREN in their "RLX" line. So when I wear it, I match it with COMME des GARÇONS slacks as if I were wearing a knit sweater. I think the appeal of this item is its classy quality, which makes it easy to wear in such a way.

-Two types were brought to us.

Arc'teryx Crew Neck ¥19,800 (Instant Bootleg Store)

The pullover hoodie with integrated hood was discontinued and discontinued quite some time ago. If you want to choose a new vintage-style floral item, this is the one. On the other hand, the crew-neck type is also nice. In recent years, only quarter-zip and full-zip hoodies have been produced, so I think it is safe to call them "New Vintage" as well.

Arc'teryx Crew Neck ¥19,800 (Instant Bootleg Store)

This crew neck is especially colorful, with different color variations for men and women. There is no difference in the details themselves, so I simply collect the colors I like. Recently, there are more and more stores that treat this area as vintage, but it is not yet clearly systematized, so vintage clothing lovers can enjoy the transition of details while reflecting their own experience.

-For example, in what areas do you see changes?

Depending on the age, the direction of the zipper may be different, or the logo may be embroidered. Basically, as with other outdoor brands, the age is determined by the name and quality tag. However, since there are many cases where one model is updated or two models are integrated instead of releasing new models in rapid succession, the reliable criterion is the transition of details.

Also pay attention to the technology used. Whether it is Polartec or Gore-Tex, it is important to know which type is used. It is possible to identify the age by Gore-Tex~~. It should be easy to tell because of the pis-sign or embroidery on the body.

-It's the proper way to wear old clothes back in the "old days,

For me, it is nostalgic and fun to use my vintage observational eye again, just like those days when I used to look up and memorize details like, "It's a 50's flannel shirt, so it has a gusset and a double-stitched collar...". However, in terms of quality, no matter where the garment was produced in the manufacturing plants currently in operation, it has cleared the strict regulations, so there is almost no difference in the quality of the garment.

-xxx There is no such thing as a rare factory, is there?

That being said, the older ones are all made in Canada, so they have Maple Leaf printed on the tag. Just like the made-in-USA moe that our generation can't escape, ARC is a Canadian moe, and it's a little different because it offers us a place to moe after USA, UK, and so on.

Covert also has a distinctive pattern. Among outdoor brand fleeces, the fabric is shredded and sewn in a very three-dimensional way, so it is non-stressful even when worn in a true-to-size fit. It's great to wear it as pajamas at the end of a long day.

-Is this a scarf next?

Arc'teryx scarves all ¥16,500 (instant bootleg store)

This is also a "scarf" also in Covert. In short, it's a fleece scarf. There are other caps and such, but this pocket on the tip is the best, don't you think? In the winter, with the cold temperatures, well, my nose drips. So in the Sakamoto family, we have certified this as a tissue pocket and wrap it around anyway when we go out in winter. It's plain, but it adds a little accent, and its warm look goes with any outfit.

-Fleece scarves look good this year.

This one was also available in 8 colors or so depending on the season, so there are many colors available. Unfortunately, it has been discontinued, so those who are interested have to dig for used ones. Therefore, it is certified as a new vintage type of "Arc'teryx. Another good item is the shirts. My favorite lightweight trekking shirt that can be worn all year round is this "RIDGELINE SHIRT.

Arc'teryx shirt (white) ¥16,500, (striped) ¥19,800 (Instant Bootleg Store)

We are attracted to things that are "unique", aren't we? This shirt has a chest pocket that can only be accessed from the side, which is a key point. Perhaps the idea is that the shirt's pockets can be used even when wearing a vest, but that's not really the case (laughs).

-It's cool to look at, though.

Right!　The solidity is emphasized and the placement of the zip pulls on the side is a good design feature. I think it's really cool. There are short-sleeved and long-sleeved versions, but this one was discontinued in the late 2010s. Keep in mind that for some reason you can almost only find plaid patterns, and solid colors are quite rare.

The cut of the fabric is very three-dimensional and very easy to move in this too. The subtle embroidery of the primordial bird on the back is also very plain and nice. No need to show off more than necessary. That is ARC's aesthetics.

-Next is the last. Globe is getting twitchy again.

Arc'teryx gloves (top: Venta SV) ¥13,200, (right: Vertical SV) ¥19,800, (left: Cam AR) ¥16,500 (Instant Bootleg Store)

In fact, this is the item in which I strongly feel the "ism" of ARC. Like the company's jackets, the SL, AR, and SV models are ranked according to where they are supposed to be used, and there is a stupid amount of variation. Incidentally, from "VENTA SV" above, clockwise: "VERTICAL SV" and "CAM AR".

The "Vertical SV" is designed for the harshest of environments. It is a single layer of Polartec's Boa glove and Gore-Tex glove that can be used to scratch an itch. Each can be used independently, but the specifications are not really needed in everyday life, and the use of more leather parts than the current version is good and retro. You can feel the roots of the brand, which started with harnesses for ice climbing and has continued to develop bagpacks and shell jackets in pursuit of quality.

-This futility also tickles a man's heart. What about these gloves?

The "Venta SV" was produced until recently, so there are a relatively large number of them in circulation, and they are relatively easy to find. So the first step is to find this one. It uses a wind stopper and is easy to install and use. The look with many retro leather parts is warm and inevitably useful for bike and bicycle travel in winter!

Gloves are becoming more and more integrated, and there are fewer and fewer types nowadays. Besides, don't you feel the romance of vintage leather gloves? They are one-of-a-kind in the world. By the way, old models are basically made of goatskin, so they look cool with a wrinkled look as if they have been used for a long time.

-Can anyone do a dating service?

If the agency name on the quality label tag is Sunwest, the item was released by Spring/Summer 2014. If it is in that area, you can somewhat identify which item it is. It would be good if you could use this method of identification when actually digging. On the other hand, for items released before the SunWest period, there are some changes in details, names and quality tags, so some knowledge is required. I think we will touch on these aspects when we feature ARC in the "Instant Bootleg Store" in the future, so please read and steal them.

-That sounds interesting, just like a dig.

However, this is just the starting line. This is where things start to get interesting for us at Arc Communications (laughs). When I had the opportunity to work with Arc'teryx this year, I had a chance to talk with the archive director in the home country, who was like a supernatural being. Compared to other brands, it may seem more difficult to determine the transition of details, models, and ages, but in many cases, it is as easy to tell as the presence or absence of a gusset on a flannel shirt. Since there are still a lot of items in circulation and a lot of information about them, they are definitely new vintage in terms of being able to enjoy them.

-What kind of an outdoor brand is Arc'teryx, in your opinion?

In the sense that they have both a street-style angle and the original context of the outdoors, I think they are similar to THE NORTH FACE and MARMOT. Older items such as the ones we have selected this time are filled with the "ism" that is unique to a brand that began by making harnesses for ice climbing, and there is a wide variety in the word "outdoors. It is certain that they can be used for a long time, so it would be wise to look for items in this area while you still can.

Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
He worked in the vintage clothing industry for over 8 years at "BerBerJin" in Harajuku, Tokyo, where he also gained experience in buying. After that, he joined the select store "FAN". Since then, he has been involved in various projects. The theme of instantbootlegstore is "a wonderful way to spend your money.
Instagram:@hajime0722