Serials 【, What's the NEW VINTAGE? Vol.104 "Our Special Back Then". Stajans and street talk.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

With all the new stores, the series has finally entered its 13th season! The 104th and final installment is by Mr. Hajime Sakamoto of "instant bootleg store". What new vintage items will he introduce this time?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

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Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
Vol.104_Stadium jacket

-What new vintages can you introduce this time?

I would like to focus on "stadium jacket in the context of new vintage" from a different angle. The reason for this is to talk about how special the stadium jacket was to the generation of people in their late 30s and late 40s who spent the 90s and 2000s as clothes lovers.

-It is true that the main item at the first New Year's sale was a stadium jacket, no matter what brand it was.

Don't you think? Trends are returning to the same atmosphere, and more and more brands are releasing stadium jackets. I think we should take this opportunity to tell the younger generation what kind of stadium jacket is good and what points to pay attention to. It's interesting to look for a stadium jacket based on the characteristics of each brand.

So, let's start with the brands that made us realize that "stadium jackets are special items! We'll start with Stussy and GOODENOUGH, the brands that made us realize that stadium jackets are special items.

-Suddenly we have a big fish!

There are more rare and expensive models in the Stussy line, but for me, the "Big 4" is the one to go for. I think many of you may be familiar with the "Big 4," as it has been used in a variety of items. Stussy's designs have been popular around the world since its inception, and Tokyo, where I live, is included in the lineup! I felt a sense of familiarity with this part of the world, and I felt a little closer to the other side of the ocean, which I had longed for, but which seemed so far away.

Stussy stadium jacket, ¥79,800 (instant bootleg store)

-I used to see them in ads in fashion magazines at the time! I wondered, "Is this real?" I wondered (laughs).

(Laughs). Yes, it has been popular since its release (around 1997-98), and there have been many boot copies available. The fact that boots are made is proof of the brand's value. A while ago, you could still buy them, but in the past 10 years, the value of old "Stussy" jackets has increased among the younger generation, and with stadium jackets once again becoming a household name, prices have begun to soar. However, the prices are still affordable, so I think this is the final line for now.

Nowadays, there is no time lag whether it is popular in Japan or somewhere else in the world, so it is very important to find the right timing. In this respect, this design will never fade away, so we hope you will get it while you can.

-The "Good Enough" has already been mentioned.

Good Enough stadium jacket ¥132,000 (instant bootleg store)

This model is called the "last stadium jacket" and is extremely rare. It is a legendary brand, "Good Enough," and when it is one of their most popular items, it is no wonder that it costs hundreds of thousands of yen. The name HIROSHI FUJIWARA is now recognized worldwide. The fact that the supplier of these items is Canadian is the best proof of this.

I think this is a singular point in the "street-style stadium jacket context" that leads to the present day. I admired the celebrities who appeared in magazines wearing matching stadium jackets. I'm sure there are many of you who have longed for that CREW feeling and thought, "Oh, I want to be one of them someday! I wish I could be one of them someday! I believe that this brand has given birth to the concept of "not only the coolness of the product, but also the coolness of the person who likes the brand".

-"I'm choosing good things, and it's cool, isn't it? I think it's cool.

In this street context, men's fashion became even more difficult for women to understand (laughs). (Laughs) Since there was no concept of "street style," our obsession with "what kind of jacket is important" was completely ignored. It may be going against the times, but I think it is something that should not be forgotten in men's fashion. I know it sounds like a hassle (laughs).

The second generation of stadium jackets, which retain the sense of style instilled by "Good Enough," are here.

-Another strong lineup of brands.

So, here we have "Supreme" and "WTAPS," both of which are still extremely popular worldwide. Both of them have a strong image of stadium jackets even today. The former has been making stadium jackets for a long time regardless of trends and has many masterpieces, while the latter has recently released self-revival models of past designs and rapper ZORN has been wearing them, so I think the younger generation has a strong image of stadium jackets as well.

Supreme stadium jacket ¥99,000 (instant bootleg store)

The back is plain, but the front is a full-deco style model from 2006. The back is plain, but the front has a full deco look. This model resonates with those who were influenced by the legendary Shibuya select store "Back Drop" and gravitated toward the street. It's a bit more retro than today. For me, it's just perfect!

-Taps has also prepared a badass model.

Double Taps stadium jacket ¥132,000 (Instant Bootleg Store)

For those of us who knew the style back then, this was the special of all specials. This is one of the legendary pieces that sold out instantly, with people standing in line all night long. It's a wonderfully elaborate piece with patterns all the way down to the ribs, and the body is very nice, too. On top of that, it has a chain and rhinestones, so I thought, "Wow! (laughs). (laughs). You can see how special the stadium jacket was.

Many people of the generation slightly younger than myself seem to think that Double Taps is a brand that offers mostly plain, street-style items for adults, but this is Double Taps.

-No, I can't resist!　So, what's next...?

And from this area, while inheriting the so-called "Ebisu-kei" DNA of Uraharajuku, there was a mixed style that was created in a different context. It was the flagship store of the "MACKDADDY" brand, where HIPHOP-ish, hardcore-ish, and regular guys all went.

At the time, I remember standing in line with my New Year's money in hand when I heard that stadium jackets would be on sale for the first time at New Year's (laugh). This is a mash-up of a jacket and a rider's jacket. It is not a double front jacket, but a double riders jacket made of wool.

Mac Daddy's Stajan ¥16,500 (Instant Bootleg Store)

-a true mixture!

While many of the backwoods brands up to that point were competing with ready-made bodies and designs, when I try them on now, they have a high quality as clothes. I have a strong image that they are made from fabrics. Of course, I think that the former brands were conscious of the American style of "daring" to use ready-made bodies, but "Mac Daddy" kept its position as a pioneer of Ebisu-style clothes that gave an "oto-noryoku" feeling to everyone from band members to rappers until the brand came to an end. The brand continued to hold its position until it came to an end.

Swagger stadium jacket ¥29,800 (instant bootleg store)

Another feature of the "height" brand is "swagger. I was in the third grade of junior high school at the time. I have been into HIPHOP since the first grade of high school, and although I attended "AIR JAM", I was really into "Sanpin Camp", so I admired the brand started by Shakkazombie.

-At that time, there were many brands started by artists, weren't there?

Shaka was a really stylish group in the HipHop scene at that time, so the items they made really looked different from others. The patch with different material parts incorporated into the sagara creates a three-dimensional effect, and it is also elaborately attached across the front. It is a classic body with a collar, but it does not look American casual at all. This is really fresh when you look at it now. I think this kind of design will increase again.

-And it seems to be relatively easy to find compared to back-harajuku brands.

I would like the younger generation to know more about the brand, like "Swagger" for HipHop lovers and "Mac Daddy" for Mixture Rock lovers. If you understand the context of the brand, you can enjoy this new vintage even more.

Huever stadium jacket ¥27,500 (instant bootleg store)

And, from the Ebisu-kei point of view, "Whoever" is also a must-see. This is the place that showed us the coolness of loose sizing that is not just an American imitation. The attention to detail, including the names, was also cool.

-It is also nostalgic for the generation that knows "those days"!

Back to the 2000s, when Ebisu-kei was in full swing. There were also brands that became popular in a different context. One such brand was "CORE FIGHTER. It was the heyday of the mixed-media era, and Kenshi Furuya of DRAGON ASH became the talk of the town for wearing it "smartly" in a certain fashion magazine! This was undoubtedly one of the reasons for the brand's breakthrough. This is the "Core Fighter" 10th anniversary stadium jacket. It's hard to believe that this brand was popular at the same time as the aforementioned Ebisu-kei brand, isn't it a very classic design?

Core Fighter stadium jacket ¥29,800 (instant bootleg store)

-This is a perfect balance!

The quality is high and the sizing is exquisite. Above all, there is a certain "badassness" in the air. Outlaws become more fashionable as they move up the ladder. This is exactly how I feel about the sexiness of men. I think it is very current. I hope people in their 30's and 40's will wear it as a new vintage. You can still find a few of them now, so I recommend it.

-Is that all for this time?

I would like to conclude not with designers, but with "Golden Bear," a body maker that should not be forgotten in this theme. At the time, many street brands used blank bodies from this company. It is a standard American-made stadium jacket, but the silhouette and texture are extremely good. Various brands and stores have been using it in recent years, such as KITH.

-The same was true of Double Taps and A BATHING APE.

First, the 90s. Unlike the current version, this one has leather patches and is in good condition with black body and leather sleeves. The key is to find a plain color. The number of these items is decreasing as well, so now is the time to look for them.

Golden Bear stadium jacket ¥27,500 (instant bootleg store)

Another rare model that should not be missed is the plain multi-colored one. I don't know how it was created, but it is not a special-order item, and can be found here and there.

Golden Bear stadium jacket ¥29,800 (Instant Bootleg Store)

You can find various stadium jackets in the vintage market, such as CHAMPION and BUTWIN, but these are newer in history and have higher quality and better silhouettes than DeLong, which has a large number of stadium jackets in the same age group. I'm not sure what to expect. If you are vaguely looking for a stadium jacket, you should try to find one from "Golden Bear," which is loved by many street brands.

-I think this is a very good conclusion to the story of the street and the stagecoach.

So, I had them look at a variety of stadium jackets, but only 50% can tell you whether they are good or bad by design alone, and unlike true vintage, which can be interpreted by existing details, you need to know the context of each brand to put a value on them. It is a kind of "New Vintage" item whose background is the key, and despite the waves of fashion, it will never go out of style...that's what the stadium jacket is to us, who grew up on the streets. That's what the stadium jacket is to us, who grew up on the streets.

Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
He worked in the vintage clothing industry for over 8 years at "BerBerJin" in Harajuku, Tokyo, where he also gained experience in buying. After that, he joined the select store "FAN". Since then, he has been involved in various projects. The theme of instantbootlegstore is "a wonderful way to spend your money.
Instagram:@hajime0722