What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.105 How about Zo Yoke and blazers for an "East Coast connection"?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

The 14th season has begun with all new stores being replaced! The 105th edition, the top batter, is Mr. Kobayashi of "Navy blazer store," which is attracting a lot of attention in Gotokuji! What kind of new vintage items will he introduce!

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Kobayashi / Navy blazer store owner
Vol.105_Zoo York Hoodies

-What kind of store is the Navy blazer store?

But first, may I tell you a little about myself?

I would love to hear from you!

I was a so-called "baseball boy" who started playing baseball in the first grade of elementary school, but the turning point came when I was in junior high school. When Nomo went to the MLB, I realized that he was better looking than the Japanese professional baseball players. I bought a fitted cap from New Era (®︎) at the World Sports Plaza in Shibuya, and that was my first encounter with the new world of imported fashion.

-It was a unique way to encounter imports in those days, when there was less information available.

From there, I became interested in not only fashion but also street culture, including music, and worked at Polo Ralph Lauren (American casual) and Loro Piana (Italian luxury) before arriving at my current position. I feel like I've been there. In my store, I remix elements of sports, American casual, street, traditional, and other styles that I have come to know and love, and express them in used and select items.

So you are proposing styling rather than individual items.

That's right. The main item is the "navy blazer," which is also the name of the store. We also do made-to-order clothing, and we offer a variety of combinations of items centered around this item. As far as vintage clothing is concerned, it does not have to be absolutely original, and I think that reprinted items are fine as long as they are good.

I see.

The most important thing is to match the blazer with the material and color scheme of the season (spring, summer, fall, and winter). The blazer is an item that can be worn in any way one wishes, depending on one's ingenuity. When thinking about this, one option that comes to mind is secondhand clothing.

-The theme of this series is "to find good regulars in the present that will be recorded and remembered like true vintage. Then, what is your definition of "New Vintage"?

If we consider good regular items that will remain in the future, one of them is "things that can be used for a long time. As I mentioned earlier, my store remixes and develops items that I myself have experienced, so I think it should be items that have been around for a long time and are still being revived in the current era. In short, items that have always had the same appeal. Also, because they are such items, they go well with the blazer, which is an unchanging and universal item.

-And now, we have a new vintage item to introduce to you....

I remember buying a hoodie like this one at a store my grandfather owned on Fire Street in Jinnan, Shibuya, in the 90s or 00s.

Zoo York hoodie 6,800 yen(Navy Blazer STORE)

-Zoo York = New York, so I have an image of a "black skate brand". What kind of brand does it have in your opinion?

I have the impression that this brand was worn by skaters who liked hip-hop in terms of both music and style, with Harold Hunter at the top of the list of riders. So, this is also an item that is connected to the culture that I have been exposed to. Ralph Lauren is also a New York brand, after all. And it looks fresh now, doesn't it?

-That's for sure.

The faded color and texture can only be found in old clothes, and the bold body width and armholes have the "character" of those days, don't they? It is lined with a brushed fabric, so it will come in handy during the still chilly rainy spring season. The embroidery of the logo is also very nice. The embroidered logo is also a nice touch, including the fact that people who don't know Zoo York themselves won't be able to tell what the brand is (laughs).

-I'm assuming that it is to be worn inside a blazer, but do you have any pointers for that? Like the silhouette has to be just right.

It doesn't matter at all! Forcing a larger size into the body is also a good idea. In the end, as long as the overall balance is maintained, you can do whatever you want.

-May I ask you to do some styling for me?

The bottoms to be worn with these are denim pants from Levi's (Levi's ®️), but I dared to wear corduroy pants from Ralph's. There is no doubt that thicker bottoms are better, but wearing slacks with these bottoms would not fit the context of Zoo York, a skate brand. There is no doubt that thicker bottoms are better, but if you wear slacks with these bottoms, they would not fit the context of Zoo York, a skate brand.

-And what about the other items?

Underneath the hoodie is a plaid shirt, and on his head is a denim hat from POLO SPORT. On his feet, he is wearing NIKE Air Trainer 1 and NIKE Court Series socks.

-The head and the feet are framed in USA colors. Moreover, the tennis ball color of the blazer lining is framed with the feet. It is fun to give meaning to the styling in this way.

I think it's fine if I don't have to explain everything to customers. However, I don't think it is necessary to explain all these aspects to the audience, and I think the audience should just enjoy it without worrying about it. I myself am doing things sensitively, based on my past experiences and memories. The Navy Blazer accepts me with open arms, so I am happy to do what I do.

Kobayashi / Navy blazer store owner
Navy blazer store" opened in September 2022 in Gotokuji Market, which has a history of about 100 years in front of Gotokuji Station. As the name suggests, the concept of the store is "Navy blazer," and select items, including used and new items and sundries, are styled and presented.
Instagram:@navyblazer_store