BIOTOP has been a leader in the general lifestyle store scene in Japan for over 15 years. By maintaining an appropriate distance from trends and thoroughly curating its own selections, the store has become a brand that attracts a large number of fans. After taking its time to increase the number of stores, "BIOTOP" has accelerated the pace of store openings in recent years. We spoke with Mr. Sakomura, Creative Director, about the future of "Biotope" at the recently opened Sapporo store, the fifth store.
PROFILE
Joined ’JUN" in 2001. After working as a store staff, he became the creative director and responsible for "ADAM ET ROPE'" and "Biotope". Currently, he is the creative director of "Biotope" and the managing director of "JUN".
The fifth restaurant, Biotope.
I think that in the past, there was an interval of about four to five years between new "biotope" stores, but the pace has picked up with the opening of the Kobe store last year and the Sapporo store this year.
Sakomura:That's right. I had been looking at "Adam et Rope" as well, but now that the members of that business have grown up, I am in an environment where I can focus on this business a little more from now on. Now that I see "Biotope" as a stand-alone business, I can make investments and decisions more quickly, and I think it has made it easier to create stores.
I see. So we can expect to see more new "biotope" stores in the future.
Sakomura:Actually, we wanted to open Kobe and Sapporo last year, but as a result, it came to this timing. So I feel that we will open about one store per year.
Were you originally looking for a place in Sapporo?
Sakomura:Yes, I have been researching for about 5 years. After looking several times, I got a good feel for the area and knew that this was a good property. I had heard that Sapporo is hard to do business in when it snows, but Maruyama Park in front of me is more crowded on days when it snows. There are people from other countries who don't get snow in their own countries. So we thought we would be able to attract a certain number of visitors even on snowy days.
How did you see Sapporo in the past?
Sakomura:We knew there was definitely business potential. We, as a group, have opened stores for many developers, so we can usually tell when we see those numbers. So we came to look at it based on the economics of the area.
The subway station is also close by.
Sakomura:Yes, we are located in Maruyama Koen. Maruyama Koen Station is just around the corner. People here seem to take the subway quite often. The rest of the time, they drive. It takes about 10 minutes from Sapporo Station by cab, so I think it is a surprisingly convenient place.
I heard that many wealthy people live in this area.
Sakomura:It has always been a highly cultural area, and there were quite a few galleries and such. 3 houses down is the U.S. Consulate, so it's still very classy.
As you mentioned earlier, the fact that this place is adjacent to Maruyama Park is very significant.
Sakomura:That's right. It's almost like having a store in the park.
The view from the restaurant and the borrowed scenery are very nice.
On the originality of the "biotope."
This is your fifth store in Sapporo.
Sakomura:Anyway, we want it to be a place where people can go to have fun. Of course it is important to have a good selection of clothes, but the most important thing is to have a restaurant, a place to buy daily necessities, a place to relax, and a place where people can come to meet the staff. So the location is very important.
What do you mean?
Sakomura:A place you go to for fun is not by chance, but on purpose. I want all stores to be places where people say, "I want to go to the biotope this weekend," or "It's sunny, so let's go to the biotope.
I see. If you want people to stay longer, then eating and drinking are also important, aren't they?
Sakomura:That's right. When it comes to competing only in clothing, there is no limit to the number of imitations that can be done. So when it comes to what makes the difference, it is the way the place is created that makes the difference.
I don't think it is limited to select stores, but we are now in a phase where retailers need to refine these aspects to compete. I think all brands and stores are spending more money and time on store development. And if that is the case, a certain amount of space is necessary.
Sakomura:Yes, but I think it would be good to create a small "biotope" in the future, not just a store with various contents as in the past. Not just a small store, but a store with some different contents.
By the way, what is the ratio of male to female customers?
Sakomura:It's about 50-50. I want people to come from both sides, and I think we are accomplishing that to some extent. Since I am a man, I am always conscious of the fact that I should not be too masculine.
Are you in charge of the buying process?
Sakomura:Yes, we do. We hired a new staff member for women's wear last year, and to a certain extent, we leave the work to that staff member. I do check with them whenever they start a new brand or leave the company.
I don't feel that the brands you carry change frequently.
Sakomura:Yes, I am. I am the type of person who, once I get involved with a company, stays with it for quite a long time. I think it will be difficult to change unless a new brand that surpasses the existing ones comes out. As for men's wear, my criteria is whether I would wear it or not.
I think it's wonderful that an entity as large as "JUN" is able to establish such a buying method.
Sakomura:I really appreciate the company for letting me do that. But I think that the fewer filters these things have, the better the smell will come through.
It is true that a strong personal feeling can result in a greater number of people being touched by the work. I think that is certainly true. By the way, is there anything you have decided not to do with "Biotope"? I think that what a brand does and what it does not do is just as important as what it does.
Sakomura:I don't clearly verbalize and communicate this, but there are quite a few things I don't do when I am in charge of stocking products and don't place items I wouldn't wear myself. For example, I don't have any designs that are too self-assertive and flashy, or that have a logo that is droning (laughs).
I certainly don't have an image of something glaring.
Sakomura:To begin with, I want to deal with customers who can make their own choices.
I don't just buy something because it's trendy.
Sakomura:That's right. I think there is a way of thinking that people feel safe wearing these clothes because they are trendy, but for those who want to make their own choices, our staff would like to offer advice and such. We don't list them by brand, so it may be difficult to understand at first glance.
I think that's part of the fun of searching and discovering, isn't it?
Sakomura:I am most pleased when people accept the fact that when they look at my clothes one by one and think, "I like it," they find that it is a certain brand at a certain price. I think there used to be people who said, "I only wear imports," but not anymore. We want to attract people who enjoy shopping in a way that is not like that, so I don't think that we have a brand-separate lineup.
I understand. I think it's a very edited sales floor.
Sakomura:Whether the price is high or low, I have what I think is good, and in the same vein, I sometimes put a 5,000 yen T-shirt behind a 300,000 yen shirt.
I often hear that "brands can't choose their customers," but in terms of stores, it may be possible to achieve the kind of people you want to see by the way the products are selected and placed, and the way the staff treats customers.
Sakomura:I think so. So staff is very important to me, and I don't want to dilute it by adding more stores.
What are your thoughts on originality?
Sakomura:We sometimes offer pure originals, but they are mostly simple items, such as cut-and-sewns. In the future, I may be able to do a little more, but it is difficult to create something that surpasses the brands we carry, so I think I need to change my perspective.
I think that now is a very difficult time for select stores. It is really hard to differentiate yourself. It is really wonderful that "Biotope" is able to maintain its current status in such an environment. I guess that's what a brand is all about.
Sakomura:Of course I understand the advantages of making our own products, but on the other hand, I think the number of people we have to deal with will also increase. Production, pattern-making, and planning. If it were men's wear and women's wear, we would need twice as many people. We have our own company, "Biotope," which is a derivative of "Biotope" and is a product of the "Biotope" brand.Yeoh Biotop (ëBIOTOP)If we were to do it, I think it would be a way to firmly brand the product like this.
I think it's true that Yo-Yo Biotope is not considered an original store in a good sense of the word.
Sakomura:I wonder if originals simply for profit are really attractive to customers who can make the choices I mentioned earlier. However, I also think that originals are the strongest. When I go on a business trip overseas, the items I shop for may be items that can only be found in the local market. In that sense, I think originals should be inherently delightful.
I see.
Sakomura:When I visited "Freemans Sporting Club" in New York a long time ago, I was so excited. It hadn't come to Japan yet.
I know, it's a good time for me. Do you go to the U.S. on business trips?
Sakomura:I used to go there right before Corona, but not recently. I'd like to go there soon, but in terms of apparel retail, I'm under the impression that there doesn't seem to be much new.
I thought so too, but when I went to New York the other day, there were more interesting clothing stores than I expected. Also, all the restaurants were making merchandises, and they were all very tasteful.
Sakomura:That kind of thing is also important.
I'm curious about the souvenirs created by the "biotope".
Sakomura:Can someone do it for me (laughs)?
Importance of research and input.
Are there any countries or areas that you have found interesting recently?
Sakomura:For the past few years, my main business trip has been to Paris, but I try to visit places I have never been before. Recently I went to Edinburgh, and before that to Budapest. People ask me why I go to such places, but I go there to see restaurants and to experience the atmosphere rather than to shop for clothes. Through these experiences, when I create a new store, I try to put various essences into it.
Has this had an impact on your store?
Sakomura:The concept of this restaurant is Western food, but this is in the image of the restaurant I saw in Budapest, which is like a family restaurant in Japan. It was a nice restaurant that was also a tourist attraction. Also, I used to like Western food and wanted to do it someday, so it was a combination of those things.
I see. I thought it was a little surprising that "biotope" was a Western cuisine, but it was an unexpected source of inspiration.
Sakomura:We have firewood in front of the restaurant, and when it is cold, we light the firewood. There was a restaurant in Edinburgh that had a very nice smell. It was very good. I think these things are things that you can't understand unless you go there. It's a small thing.
I think it is important. There is a kind of touch that you can never get from a photograph or video alone, isn't there?
Sakomura:I think Mr. Sasaki, the representative, understands this.
The furniture is calledMaruni WoodworkingI heard that you asked Mr.
Sakomura: I originally used a chair from Maruni Woodworking at home, and I also bought a chair from "non-native".Mr. Fujii at workI was introduced to them when I saw that they were working on a project. We had chairs and a table, and also a custom-made tabletop.
It has a unique softness and a luxurious feel.
Sakomura:The lamp on the upstairs table was bought at a European flea market, apparently from Denmark in the 70s.
I'm sure directing a restaurant is a big responsibility, but it sounds like a lot of fun.
Sakomura:That's right. I did everything myself for the first time when I opened the Osaka branch, but at the time I was so overwhelmed with responsibility that I was scared. I was allowed to take responsibility for everything from the selection of the location to the contents of the store. Since then, the Fukuoka store has been a lot of fun to work on.
Lastly, is there anything you would like to do in the future because of the Sapporo branch?
Sakomura:I would like to create something that will allow people to enjoy the changes of the four seasons. It would also be great if we could do something together with local artists and writers.
I am looking forward to the "biotope" in the north. Thank you for your time today.
