【FOCUS IT.] Up-and-coming vintage clothing stores in Sangenjaya gather for a pop-up store. What kind of vintage clothing do you want to wear now?

Beginning with the Series "Vintage Summit" , an antique mall of vintage clothing, "FNAM'Soperation, and focus on the recently launched New Vintage.a series of articles written in the same style as the last one (often in kana-only articles). etc., the relationship between "HOUYHNHNM's" and secondhand clothing is inseparable.

Until now, vintage clothing has been the focus of various movements, such as the American casual boom, items that became the originals of fashion brands and rose in value, and the recent 90's fashion trend, but recently, a different mood can be felt.

It is not a matter of collecting highly desirable vintage items, but rather of using vintage clothing as a fashion item, even if it is recent, without limiting the age of the item.

This time, we will introduce up-and-coming vintage clothing stores "Ecle." and "per-aah," both of which have stores in Sangenjaya, where this trend is strong. (Ecle.)", "per-aah", and Mr. Sadatsune, who until recently worked as a buyer at a long-established vintage clothing shop in Shimokitazawa and started presiding over "CONTiNUE", will hold a joint pop-up store "SUPER HOUSE" from September 25 (Fri.) to The store will be held over four days from September 25 (Fri.) to 28 (Mon.).

We talked to the 30-year-old owners about the event and the recent vintage clothing scene.

Masashi Sadatsune, owner of "Contenu" (left), Shota Noda, owner of "Peruaa" (middle), Kazuma Abe, owner of "Eclair. Owner Kazuma Abe (right)

-. First of all, please tell us about your stores.

Kazuma Abe ("Abe"):Eclair. offers vintage and regular vintage clothing from around the world, including the U.S., in a modern style that can be enjoyed by adults, with attention to design, detailing, and materials. We have a 50-50 balance between men's and women's wear.

Shota Noda ("Noda"):Peruaa" is located between Sangenjaya ("Sangenjaya") and Shimokitazawa. We select what we think is interesting at the time, focusing on colors and patterns, from vintage to regular vintage clothing, with an emphasis on American vintage clothing. The ratio of men's wear to women's wear is about 7:3, but we offer items as unisex.

Tadashi Sadatoki ("Sadatoki"):. I just quit the vintage clothing store I worked at for 7 years in June and do not have a store yet. Until then, I worked as a buyer for a vintage clothing store that has been in business in Shimokitazawa for almost 30 years. . My favorite vintage clothes are from the 60s to the 80s, but I will pick anything unusual, regardless of its age or country. I prefer basic but playful designs.

The pop-up venue, often used for brand exhibitions and photo shoots, is a comfortable space with just the right amount of light.

-How did this joint pop-up store "Super House" begin?

Stationary:First of all, I was thinking that I would like to do some preliminary work on the store while saving up money, hoping to open my own vintage clothing shop next year or so. Then, a friend of mine who runs a water cigarette store in Nakameguro invited me to do a pop-up shop. . Since we could only put a small amount in the space, I thought I would like to do it again.

Abe:I was thinking about doing a pop-up for the first time in a while, so we decided to do it together. Before I opened my current store, I used to run a pop-up vintage clothing store at events. This time, we are planning to sell about 150 items in total at the three stores, and we plan to add more items as they sell.

Noda:I was invited by Mr. Sada, but he told me very roughly at first, so I wondered if I was really going to do it (laughs). I was like, "Are we really going to do this?

Stationary:I personally invited him with the intention of enlivening the vintage clothing stores in Sancha....

Abe:Noda and I are both from the Tohoku region and are the same age. We opened our stores at the same time, and although we present our clothes in different ways, the clothes we sell are also close to each other. BANK" and "zig" are well known as secondhand clothing stores in Sancha, but the number of secondhand clothing stores has been gradually increasing since we started our store. It's only been two and a half years, but I think we may be the second generation of secondhand clothing stores in Sancha (laughs).

-Recently, there has been a resurgence in the popularity of secondhand clothing in your neighborhood of Shimokitazawa, and the number of stores is increasing again. I have an image of a somewhat different atmosphere in spite of its proximity, but what is vintage clothing like in Sancha?

Abe:Rather than focusing on the age of the item, many people see it as part of a fashion item. . I guess you could say that vintage clothing is fashion filtered through a filter. From my point of view, I would reach for the older items if they were from a different era, but this is not the case.

Noda:Our house is similar. Many of them are hairdressers, and I get the impression that they enjoy wearing clothes. Many customers want to express their individuality. Another characteristic of secondhand clothing stores in Sancha is that they are open until late. Customers stop by after work or after having a drink, and sometimes customers who come at 9:00 p.m. come back at 11:00 p.m. (laughs).

Abe:Indeed, closing at 23:00 seems to be early for a vintage clothing shop in Sancha. Many of our neighbors stop by as well, and we also have a lot of stylists who come in. Because we close late, we are like a last resort for people who come to lease items.

Stationary:Shimokitazawa is attracting an increasing number of young people. I was thinking about how to differentiate myself from other stores in Shimokitazawa. I felt that the adult customers who had been in Shimokitazawa for a long time were standing out from the rest of the stores, so I decided to quit trying to compete in that direction. If anything, I was more conscious of the stores in Sancha, Nakameguro, and Yutenji.

-It is true that the store where you used to work is a little different from the new vintage clothing shops in Shimokitazawa. What kind of people frequented your shop?

Stationary:I think people who were not satisfied in other areas were coming. They were looking for something modern but interesting that they could not find in new clothes. Even secondhand clothes are more fashionable and have a modern feel. I got the sense that people were not just looking for cheap secondhand clothes, but were also looking for good clothes.

-One of the entrances to used clothing is, of course, that it is easier on the wallet than new clothing. . To begin with, what do you think are the advantages of secondhand clothing?

Stationary:One of the things about wearing vintage clothes is that you don't look like anyone else, but the real appeal is that you have to go out of your way to match the clothes yourself. It is not about wearing something unique, but rather about matching the clothes with the individuality of the wearer. I like the feeling of being out of step with the times, or the feeling of something that comes naturally, even though I am not aiming for it. . I am attracted to the way you wear things in your own way.

Abe:. like how to wear this size. I am a place where there are no rules. I have no rules. The way a customer perceives a piece allows for unlimited coordination, and the range of coordination is unlimited. I think about how I should wear it, and then buy the next item that fits. The decadent beauty of rags can't be expressed in new clothes. I think the quality is better now.

Stationary:I think older ones are better.... I think the older ones are better......they have a unique nep texture that is attractive, and they are durable.

Abe:That definitely has a thrift store filter in it! (Laughs) .

All:(Laughter)

Noda:But you may have a point. In my case, I like the material, but there are fabrics that would be quite expensive if I tried to make them now, and that is one of the advantages of secondhand clothing.

Abe:Come to think of it, there are many people who like cotton-poly flimsy T-shirts and the like these days. I guess people who come to buy secondhand clothes are looking for something that can only be found in secondhand clothes. I sometimes worry about whether a standard 50/50 T-shirt will be transparent or not.

Stationary:Especially girls tend to do that. That one gives off a vibe when you wear it.

-. I see. We have asked the three of you to bring several items of used clothing that you plan to sell. Could you briefly explain what kind of items they are?

Noda:I thought it would be nice to have something interesting that isn't vintage but doesn't appear very often, so I went with a pink mekipa (meshikan parka) with an unusual zip-up design. The 90's leopard jean jacket, which is surprisingly hard to find, is not from the 50's, but a regular jean, which is a nice touch. And, since I like check shirts, a white and yellow simple check shirt. This one is a large size.

Abe:I like the fact that it's a 70505-based leopa.

Stationary:I can't go to the store at the moment, so I'm releasing a personal item: the "TNFX" from The North Face in the 90's, a somewhat rare snowboard jacket. The color scheme is pretty cool. The brown parka and navy jacket are outerwear from the 1980s by "Sporting Gear Hai," which was jointly developed by Miyake Design Studio (known for Issey Miyake) and Wacoal. The overalls are Woolrich from the 80s and 90s. They have a camouflage pattern and are made of wool gobelins! . The color is blaze orange. They were worn with double turn-ups.

Noda:When folded back, it looks like leopard. The long length is the opposite of what I like.

Abe:Nylon jacket and women's top from the 1970s. The jacket from the 50s by "CAMPUS" has a see-through fabric on the front that looks so weak that even the lining is transparent, so I don't know what it's for (laughs). (Laughs). It is also unusual for a jacket to be black at this time. (Laughs.) The Adidas ATP jerseys were popular for a while, but I thought it would be interesting now that fewer people are wearing them because they are so fickle. The fact that it's not a sports jersey but a McGREGOR jersey from the 90s is also appealing to me.

Stationary:Was the see-through one worn in a rockabilly kind of way?

-It's interesting that everyone is so disparate! If you had to focus on any one of these, which would it be?

Abe:Is it a nylon jacket? It's not particularly old, but I think the color and design of the freedom sleeves make it interesting. It is a size S , but it would be nice to wear it small and crisp. I think it would be cute if women wear this outerwear with a trendy lace top , with the collar turned up.

Stationary:What age are the women's tops?

Abe:. looking at the sewing threads, I think it must be around the 70's.

Noda:I can't help but see it as a man.

Stationary:I think that the outerwear of "Sporting Gear High," which started in 1977, was proposed as casual wear rather than sportswear. . At the time, it seems that this kind of brand name was given to clothes that were more like real clothes. You haven't seen these, have you?

Noda:There is no . . this one has nice details. 80's "Wacoal"?

Abe:It's not the same. It would be great if this design had an even more " ISSEY MIYAKE " feel to it.

Noda:This mekipa is pink , but it's not all pink, and it's on point. It can be worn with a rockabilly attitude, and I think it would also be cute for girls to wear over a dress instead of a hoodie. The zipper is "IDEAL.

Stationary:I've seen people wearing a mekipa with a sweatshirt inside. Girls would wear this with denim shorts!

Abe:California, huh? (laughter).

-These vintage clothes are from a different perspective than what you call "vintage" and valuable, aren't they? What is the mood of the moment?

Stationary:Personally, I wanted to wear regular clothes in a cool way. I like vintage and old things, and this is a feeling I never had before.

Noda:I like ragged clothes. I like tattered clothes, and I had never owned any myself before, but my mood was turning in that direction.

Abe:Customers tend to be more concerned about the silhouette. There was a trend toward big sizes, but brands are also introducing flared pants, and they are not just big anymore. Our store is eclectic, which means eclectic. We propose a mix of vintage and regular, trendy and classic, etc.

Noda:Flared pants are very popular in Sancha. Fashionable hairdresser girls wear them with transparent shirts.

Stationary:When flares were popular in the past, I got the impression that they were hippie-like, but this time I feel that they are more like 80's disco wear. Club culture has emerged, but it's not yet like sneakers, but more like the era of center presses and a dash of style.

Abe:During the previous boom, the silhouette was easy to understand, like 646 and 684. Recently, wide flares and looser silhouettes have become popular. I have the impression that skinny jeans have decreased, but recently, sizes have become more diversified, and there are more people who don't mind wearing tops that are a little smaller.

Noda:Perhaps that is what is so evident in Sancha.

Abe:I wonder if it would be okay given the recent size sensibilities. . I wonder if it would be okay given the size of the clothes these days, but when worn by today's children, it looks cohesive.

Stationary:Gucci-esque! . I think more and more people are changing the size of their items these days.

-. may I conclude by asking what each of you hopes to launch in the future?

Noda:There are a lot of them (laughs). I wanted to go with a transparent material or pattern for the top, but I'm still thinking about it. . I would also like to suggest chinos to go with the tops. . In this way, I would like to propose something basic but old-fashioned.

Abe:I'm trying to make it look modern in terms of the size, like 60's style with a tight fit in the bottom and a loose fit in the top. Tops could be 90's style. We would like to propose silhouettes.

Stationary:I think of the 80's as an open door. I think of it as an open door to the 80's. Items that are a fusion of fashion and classics, and things that have their own peculiarities. I like to use these as a base, and mix them with basics. For example, the 60's staples I am wearing today have a tapered silhouette and are made of hopsack, but this type of fabric only existed in the early days of the fashion industry. . I would say it's the details like that.

Abe:. I'd like to raise the level of basics, wouldn't you? Like this material for this item. . There are so many things that I want to convey in the stores. There are many things I would like to convey at the store.

Stationary:I want to propose vintage clothing from a different perspective. We want to present our way of dressing through American casual and street fashion. In the future, I think vintage clothing stores will need to become more like select stores.

Abe:I think that the current proposal will change with the changing times, but I would like to do something interesting originating from Sancha in a way that is different from other areas.

CONTiNUE Instagram, run by Sadatsune

Ecle.
Address: 1-35-27 Sangenjaya, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Hours: 15:00-23:00 Store Instagram

per-aah
Address: 3-25-6-1F Taishido, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Hours: 16:00-25:00 Store Instagram