So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.28 "If you notice it, it fits the current era. Hunting camo is once again on my mind.

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This Series has been relaunched with a new store. The 28th issue features Mr. Michihiko Kurihara of Mr. Clean, a new addition to the series.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Michihiko Kurihara / Mr. Clean Owner
Vol.28_Hunting camo all-in-one & jacket & pants

-What does the new vintage mean to you, Mr. Kurihara?

. an object that was made in the past and is no longer in circulation and sold new. . And yet, it is being sold at a price that has a value attached to it. I think this is the condition of vintage as a thing. So, for example, NIKE's Air Jordan 1 Retro released 10 years ago. If you compare it to that condition, it is already vintage. I think that regular old clothes that have been newly found valuable in today's sense are "new vintage". However, the definition of "vintage used clothes" is more strict in Japan than overseas. There are people who say that even Levi's 501s made in the late 66's or later are not vintage. Mr. Yutaka (*Yutaka Fujihara of "BerBerJin") once said the same thing (laughs).

-Mr. Kurihara is a member of "Vintage Summit" and is known to everyone as an excellent vintage buyer. We had no idea that he would join us in this Series!

No, no, I personally prefer new vintage. Of course I wear vintage, but since I started wholesaling as a freelance buyer, the range of items I buy has expanded greatly. There are many interesting items that I wasn't aware of before, and I genuinely enjoy selecting them. In fact, most of the items I pick for my personal belongings are from the 1980s onward.

What are some of the new vintage items that you would like to introduce to us?

Since there seems to be a renewed interest in camo patterns developed for hunting and outdoor use, I would like to focus on camo patterns developed for hunting and outdoor use. It was not until later that the original hunting camo was born. Therefore, for HOUYHNHNM's main target group of people in their 30's and 40's, many of them have seen regular used clothing in real time and consider it as "something that people who like it like".　That's why I think that now people are nostalgic and say, "I remember when we used to have something like this". Of course, the younger generation will see it as something new and fresh.

It is true that Realtree camo became popular among the younger generation due to the influence of Kanye West, and it is still fresh in our minds. What kind of camo pattern would you recommend as the next step?

This may be a little off the mark in terms of the next move, but let's start with the Assat camo, famously sampled by Supreme and A BATHING APE. In the 90's, it was also called "tribal camo" because of its similarity to tribal tattoos. . In terms of items, an all-in-one (tuna) is a bit unusual. Since these hunting camo patterns are designed by a general company, they are trademarked, and the trademark is used as the name of the item. In short, the camo pattern developed by "ASAT" is called "ASAT Camo.

Assat all-in-one ¥22,000(Mr. Clean)

The next item to be introduced is the Predator camo. As printed on the tag and body, it was developed by "PREDATOR. The name means "predator," and it looks like hunting wear, which is cool (laughs). . This jacket is lined and padded, so I guess it is a hunting jacket for winter. It has a roomy size that takes into account the historical background and mobility, and a raglan specification with a rounded silhouette. It seems to fit in with the recent trend , and seems to be easy to use.

Jacket in predator camo ¥11,000(Mr. Clean)

Are these pants also Predator camo?

. As with military woodland camo and desert camo, the pattern details and coloring change depending on the purpose of use. Like military woodland camo and desert camo, they are designed to suit the environment, vegetation, and seasons of each land, such as deserts and jungles, so the pattern details and coloring will change depending on the use at the time. So, to put it this way, these cargo pants are for spring and summer when the leaves are green. I think the predator camo is relatively easy to find among these hunting camos. Although I myself don't wear it, the base color and pattern are well balanced, so I think this is the one that is easiest to match in terms of fashion.

Predator camo pants ¥11,000(Mr. Clean)

Are all hunting ducks very different from each other in terms of market value?

The first one, Assat Camo, is already over 20,000 yen for a basic jacket or shirt. It is not uncommon to see unusual designs in the 30,000 yen range. When you search online auctions and flea market sites, you can find "Supreme" in the search terms, so many people are probably looking for these items in that context. It may be that not many of them appear in terms of the number of balls, but the fact that they have gained recognition by being sampled by street brands means that they are being traded at high prices. Although less well-known, the Reeveson Rimskamo has a nice atmosphere. Its name translates directly to "leaf and limb," and its leaves are shaped like hands and feet. Unlike the other two, this one has "MODERN CAMOUFLAGE" written on the tag, so perhaps this is the brand name.

Jacket in modern camouflage ¥8,800(Mr. Clean)

Compared to the military camo patterns, these seem to be less likely to be worn by others, and they seem to be easy to incorporate as a patterned item.

Real tree camo, which was mentioned earlier, is the most major hunting type, but it is somewhat more difficult to incorporate into fashion. Some people have successfully incorporated it into a street-style context, but it tends to be more serious. That said, this area goes well with American casual style, and surprisingly, I think it would be interesting to match it with mode fashion.

-That's true, in the 90s, there were quite a few people who took that approach to dressing.

. It's refreshing to see it now, isn't it? Lastly, I'm a little unsure of the name of the camo pattern, but I have a pair of pants made of fleece that will be useful in the coming season. They have a design of vine-like plants like Ivy. They have a deep crotch, and are probably winter pants worn over a thermal or something similar underneath.

Rocky Mountain Safari Gear Pants ¥6,600(Mr. Clean)

-I've been shown a lot of things, but is this area harder to find than military camo?

All of the items shown here were found during the recent shopping trip, so you can still find them if you look for them. Moreover, most of them are priced around 10,000 yen, so they are easy to take in. However, just like military wear, this is workwear. It is difficult to find good quality workwear. As for sizes, they are basically large. Nowadays, XL size is more in demand than S size, and in that sense, it can be said that this item fits the times.

Michihiko Kurihara / Mr.Clean Owner, Vintage Buyer
He started working in vintage stores as a teenager and later became a buyer for the famous "Lost Hills" store in Harajuku, Tokyo. 2011, he became independent and opened "Mr. Clean" in Tomigaya after working as a freelancer. As a vintage buyer, he travels to the U.S. for about 180 days a year to make purchases. With his wealth of knowledge and solid discernment, he has been a regular member of HOUYHNHNM's famous "Vintage Summit" since its inception.
Official site:www.kurikurivintage.shop-pro.jp
Instagram:@mrcleantomigaya