What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
This Series is now in its sixth season. . So, we are restarting this series with a new store. The 43rd issue features Yosuke Nogata of Astrology Store in Gotokuji, Tokyo.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Yosuke Yokata / Astrology store owner
Vol.43_Ambiance and flair of trucker caps
-What does the new vintage mean to you?
I think the basic idea is the same as those who have appeared in this Series so far. The two most important things for me are "something interesting that the world is not yet aware of, and something that can offer new suggestions. These two things are important to me. I also work as a wholesaler of used clothing in the U.S., and I feel that there is a time lag in the way people wear used clothing in the U.S. and Japan, even among the same young generation. Therefore, I sometimes get hints from the younger generation over there when I buy, and I try to be aware of such aspects.
-So, who are you going to introduce this time?
. I thought about it a lot, but how about a trucker cap? Not many people are wearing them these days, and when I saw the younger generation in the U.S. adopting this kind of style, I thought it would be a good idea, as I found it "interesting. From the 90's to the early 00's, there were many releases from skateboard companies, weren't there? I wanted to try to attack a niche, while also having a revival-like feel of those days.
. - Perhaps because it is an item that can be made in a flippant way, interesting designs can be found in a non-fashion context.
In the U.S., it's already one of our daily necessities. Well, denim is no different (laughs). I myself used to wear caps when I was young, but I haven't worn them for a long time. A while ago, the dud cap with a shallow visor and a curved visor became popular, and I think it is a novelty for the younger generation who started wearing caps in the late 1990s.
-I certainly don't remember them being popular in the last decade or so, and there is a big possibility that there is a generation that hasn't gone through them at all. So, what would you pick up on such a trucker cap now?
There are three main types: (1) front panel with sponge, (2) without sponge, (3) full mesh, and (1) with sponge that has deteriorated and is worn out. In terms of design, you can find a lot of sports and corporate products such as football and baseball. Take this one for example. The University of Nebraska-Lincoln had a football team called the Cornhuskers, and this was probably made by the team that played against them. The initials "H "UCK and "F "USKERS on "Buffalo" (there is a county in Nebraska with the same name) are interchanged to make fun of the opponent. . I thought that this seemingly unrecognizable feeling was very stylish.
Trucker cap for game vs. Nebraska Cornhuskers ¥6,380(Astrology Store)
-. This is Häagen-Dazs.
Haagen-Dazs tracker cap ¥9,020(Astrology Store)
As you can see, the design is a straightforward logo design, but the badge version is quite rare. The price of the caps was also skyrocketed due to the collaboration with graphic artist VERDY's . On the other hand, trucker caps can be found at relatively low prices if you look for them. However, they are not that easy to find (laugh).
-Is this official?
. I think it was. . I think they were probably worn as uniforms by the store staff at the time. . If it was sold, I think there would be a lot more of them. The visor and the body are the same color, and this patch is very attractive. The price is not so bad, but it is a collector's item. The next item is also a corporate item.
-What kind of company is this "SAFE-T-LAWN"?
Safety Loan Trucker Cap ¥6,380(Astrology Store)
I was simply checking out the groove on this one, but I'll do some research on it: ....... Ah, it appears to be a company that sells sprinklers. The "T" is supposed to look like a sprinkler head , with water coming out of it. I had always pictured it as a mountain (lol).
-That's how you have fun researching backgrounds, etc. . And that, too, of a local company that I don't really understand (laughs).
Yes, and the fact that the prints are simply very detailed is also a high point of the product. Another corporate product is "Besteel. I think this is a combination of the words "best" and "steel. It is made in Korea, so I think it is from the 80's. . The "Safety Loan" I mentioned earlier is made in Taiwan , and it is also nice.
Besteal trucker cap ¥6,380(Astrology Store)
In the 80's, many of them were made in Korea and Taiwan . There were also Hong Kong-made products, and it is likely that many of them were made in the Far East due to labor costs at the time. Polo Ralph Lauren is another example. Patagonia also has some interesting products made in Hong Kong and Taiwan. In terms of quality, many of them are well made. However, I am not particularly concerned about trucker caps (laughs).
Campbell Soup Company trucker cap ¥8,140(Astrology Store)
-I guess this is the full mesh of (3) that you first explained. It looks cool and good for summer!
It is the "Campbell Soup Company," familiar to Andy Warhol. This patch alone is valuable, and this is the first time I have seen it myself. I think it was made at the headquarters factory in Sacramento, California, and was probably used for the factory staff or for promotional purposes. . The top button is red and tomato-like, and it's cute. When you pick a piece, I think you can enjoy it in your own way if you base your choice on the overall color scheme and flippancy, rather than on the fact that it is from this company.
-I have a mesh cap with a high crown and a deep headband. Any pointers on how to wear them?
. Do not bend the visor part in a strange way, but put it on properly and normally. In the case of vintage caps, it is common for the visor to break when it is bent, so even if it does, it should only be bent a little. As a rule, I try to match it with a plain T-shirt, as a printed T-shirt would be too loud. Also, looking at the younger generation in the U.S., there are many patterns of wearing them with shirts and other neat outfits, so please try to imitate them.
Yosuke Yokata / Astrology store owner
He started his career in the vintage clothing industry at "VOICE" in Harajuku, Tokyo. After working as a buyer at VOICE, he became independent. In 2021, 10 years after starting his own used clothing wholesale business, he opened an actual store, "Astrology store," in Gotokuji. In the store, there are not only clothes, but also accessories, gnomes, and other items selected by Ms. Nogata's aesthetic eye that have "something of a nice atmosphere.
Official site:astrology727.base.shop
Instagram:@astrology__store