So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.66 "Elements of the new vintage are more modern than the old? New Balance's military wear. Such is the military style of New Balance.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

Starting this time, all the stores have been replaced and the 9th season is restarted. The 66th edition, the second batter, is Hiryu Unno of TheSunGoesDown .

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Hiryu Unno / Owner, TheSunGoesDown
Vol.66_New Balance USMC Training Jacket & Pants

-What is the New Vintage for you?

In contrast to conventional vintage items, which are attractive for their use of natural fibers, unique designs, and hand-made sewing, which are different from those of today due to the historical background of the time, the history of the designers, and the cultural background of the time, there are items that have become highly functional due to industrial development and technological evolution, such as high-quality but not so well known clothing, and items that are not talked about in Japan, but are popular with companies overseas. In other words, things that not many people know about but that are still cool, such as clothes that have become highly functional and good quality but are not that well known in Japan, or things made by companies that are not talked about in Japan but are popular overseas. In other words, things that not many people know about, but that are still cool. I believe that these will remain as "new vintage" in the future.

-Umino, you have the unique background of being a first-class architectural firm as well.

In architectural design, the overall balance is important. A building is only complete when it is furnished with furniture, fixtures, and various other elements. Therefore, as a vintage clothing store, we are conscious of the same thing when we stock vintage clothing, "considering the overall color and balance, matching it with any item, and making it wearable and enjoyable over a long period of time.

-In terms of adaptability to diversity, it is a very "modern" way of thinking. So, what are the new vintage items you are going to introduce this time?

We have a set of U.S. Army training jackets and pants. As you know, the Army's IPFU and the Air Force's PTU are popular in this genre, but this one was supplied to the USMC (U.S. Marine Corps) by "New balance" in the 1990s and 2000s.

New Balance USMC Training Jacket ¥12,980(The Sun Goes Down)

The company has supplied a wide range of items to the U.S. military, including sneakers, windbreakers, training shorts, training T-shirts, and trunks, including items that were not adopted by the military. Among these, this set-up is recommended for its comfort. NIKE" is another sports brand that is a military contractor, but it has a larger market share than Nike, so I think it is relatively easy to get a hold of.

-I have an image that such military released goods used to be sold at a discount at "Nakata Shoten" in Ueno Ameyoko. It is not like that now, is it?

Yes, I mentioned that they are easy to obtain, but nowadays they are more popular as a fashion item than they were at the time, and their prices are rising in the market. Since the number of items is small because they are not constantly manufactured in the first place, and with the popularity of the military in recent years, demand has exceeded supply, this trend is likely to continue.

-I see. So, what is the point of the items you are going to introduce to us?

The IPFU and PTU mentioned above are made of a hard nylon material, but this is a very soft nylon material that is also lightweight. The surface of the fabric is coated with Nanosphere, a proprietary coding technology developed by Scholler of Switzerland. It is water-repellent, oil-repellent, stain-resistant, and durable, and the mesh lining is made by Unifi of the United States. The mesh lining is made by Unifi of the U.S. The more you look at it, the more you realize how well made it is.

. - As one would expect from a military product, it is extremely functional.

. In the jacket, there are front zippers on both sides, reflector piping on the back and sleeves to increase visibility at night, and a drawcord inside the front pocket to adjust the length of the hem. . In addition, there is a drawcord built into the front pocket to adjust the length of the hem.

The large "MARINES" print on the back also makes a big impact! While Patagonia's MARS and Arc'teryx's LEAF are designed to be worn during actual military operations, this one is for training, so there is no problem with being conspicuous, and the logo is the biggest point. The main point is that it is for training purposes, so it is not a problem to be conspicuous. Anyway, the elements are all packed in here, and I think the inert feeling, in a good way, is conversely very current.

-. In a military context, where anonymity is demanded, this is a very strong statement (laughs). The pants are also nice.

New Balance USMC training pants ¥10,980(The Sun Goes Down)

The basic features and details are the same as the jacket. . Therefore, I think it is possible to wear them as a set-up. Or, you can try to mix and match these jackets with outdoor, sports, military, and other elements to create an atmosphere that is relaxed and easy to wear. Naturally, you can also expect comfort. In fact, I use them when I train for my mixed martial arts hobby, and I'm so hooked on them that I can't wear anything else anymore (laughs).

. -It's a combination of fashion and practicality.

After all, military goods are developed and manufactured with great care, based on the assumption of various situations in which troops are engaged in activities, and after each country invests a huge amount of money in them. . Excellent functionality and many details that create that functionality. The balance between functionality and design is exquisite, and I personally find it very appealing from a fashion point of view. I think this is the very origin of fashion.

Hiryu Unno / Owner, TheSunGoesDown
. In 2010, he established his own apparel brand and started his own career. . Owner of "TheSunGoesDown," a popular vintage store in Shimokitazawa that attracts a wide range of customers. He offers a unisex lineup with a unique selection based on American and European military and work wear, with an awareness of sewing, color, and materiality. The store has a reputation for its carefully selected selections and styling, and is now in its 12th year of operation. In addition to directing a number of architectural designs, he also operates irregular events as WIT together with "Ito Shoten" and "Wed Store," both of which have appeared in this Series before.
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