In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
With all the new stores replaced, this Series is finally in its 11th season! The 87th issue is the second round of Mr. CHILL of "chillweeb," which just celebrated its second anniversary the other day. What new vintages will he introduce!
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
chill / chillweeb Owner
Vol.87_MAHARISHI's Motorcycle Coat & Anorak Parka & Vest
-What are some of the new vintage items you will be introducing?
Many readers in their mid-30s or older may feel nostalgic about this brand, but this time we would like to introduce "MAHARISHI," a brand established in the U.K. in 1994. The designer, Hardy Blechman, was originally a collector of military surplus clothing, and is known for his sampling of these items.
In recent years, you have collaborated with Mizuno, Reebok, adidas, and other popular sports brands in the Eurozone, making you one of the country's leading street brands.
Naturally, the brand is still active, but we are focusing on items from 1997 to 2000, when a designer named Tony Spackman was involved.
When I think of your brand, I have a strong image of items with oriental embroidery such as dragons, when did that happen?
It was cool to see the mixing of oriental motifs with military wear, which is a western item. In terms of time, I think it was after the 2000s. They are being reevaluated due to the Y2K boom in recent years, but there is a quiet boom among more maniacal people. I personally like them and would love to propagate them (laughs).
I see. What kind of person is Tony Spackman?
Like the founder Hardy, he is a British designer who entered the industry as an intern at "The DUFFER of St. GEORGE" before joining "Maharishi". After that, he became a designer for NIKE, where his futuristic and urban-tech designs from 2002-2003 are popular among the world. He also served as director of Givenchy from 2013 to 2022, and has had a spectacular career.
I see. What kind of items did you work on at Maharishi?
The official website of the designer has images of some of the items he worked on at the time, so you can see for yourself, but I think the greatest feature of his work is the "functional beauty" that is common to the items he later worked on for Nike. They are cool even at a quick glance and match the mood of "I want to wear something like this now! I want to wear something like this right now!
Is this your first dress? It's pretty cool.
. Is it a motorcycle coat in the military item sense? The front pocket on the chest is eye-catching, but the attention to detail is extraordinary. The name tag on the inside is a "ninja tag" that was seen in the early days of the brand. Items with this tag are usually sold at a premium price.
MAHARISHI's Motorcycle Coat ¥33,000(Chillweave)
The buttons are original with the brand name stamped on them, and the tape to which they are sewn is also original with the logo. On the other hand, the receiver side is not a buttonhole, but a loop with a drawcord. This idea has never been seen anywhere else, and is a must-have for gear lovers.
. and the hood can be removed freely. The zips are also noteworthy! The rails, tapes, and head are all two-color, and are original, specially ordered from "riri. The two-color W-zip is a characteristic detail of this season.
-. It is a simple and clever design, without a large logo.
Yes . They are highly finished clothes that you can continue to wear for a long time without getting tired of them. By the way, all of the items we have prepared this time are made in the U.K. There are some good-looking items among the current made-in-China items, but as a vintage clothing lover, I am still attracted to them.
-What about the second one?
This is a model from around 2000. The tag of this period is characterized by a tagging style logo design, commonly known as a "tagging tag" . The category is an anorak parka.
MAHARISHI's Anorak Parka ¥36,800(Chillweave)
The hood and body are large. Reflector tape surrounds the body, and the lining of the hood and pockets are lined with a so-called "maharishi camouflage" pattern. Even the piping is perversely elaborate with a camouflage pattern. The Velcro straps on the sleeves also have reflectors and a camouflage pattern. The use of a breathable mesh material for the lining of the body is also a result of the emphasis placed on functionality.
-The third piece is the vest. The asymmetry of the design and the placement of the pockets smells techy.
MAHARISHI vest ¥24,800(Chillweave)
The body material is also made of Coolmax, a water-absorbent, quick-drying material. However, this item was designed by Tony Spackman in 1999 and improved in the 2000s, and there are differences in materials and the position of the pockets. Therefore, it is slightly different from the theme of this issue, but the asymmetrical design is unique and extremely cool!
-The asymmetrical cutting is indeed unique, but what is the design intent?
What is it? (laughs). There is a jacket with the same design, but the fact that they went to the trouble of making it with this cutting is just typical of "Maharishi.
. If it were on the right side, I thought it would look like a gun holder on the waist, but it is on the left side, isn't it? . I thought it would be like having a Japanese sword on your waist.
As I mentioned earlier, Japanese taste, such as ninja, is an essential element of the Maharishi, so that could be a possibility. To explain a little more about the details, the zips are naturally two-color, but the head part is designed to look like an elongated tag. The pith name, which is basically attached to other items as well, is stylish without the brand name, and the stitching that peeks out from the inside is an exquisite accent.
To be honest, I felt that the overall price was very reasonable compared to the last COSPA's anime T-shirts.
. . but there are still only a few people in Japan who focus on this area, even for "Maharishi". However, in Japan, there are still only a few people who focus on this area, even at Maharishi, so this may be the only time you can buy them at this price. In fact, among gear collectors who like military-style gear with a tech element, such as Stone Island and C.P. Company, Maharishi is gaining a reputation as the next best thing, and I expect this will be the case in the future. I expect that this will be the case in the future.
chill / chillweeb Owner
On May 1, 2022, he opened "chillweeb" in Daitabashi. In March 2024, he moved to URAHARA CENTRAL APARTMENT in Harajuku, attracting even more attention. Also known as Nard Cobain.
Instagram:@chillweeb_harajuku
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